Various wall systems of houses, fastening capabilities, strength

Hello dear forum.

Our names are Florian and Stefanie, both in their mid-40s. We have already built two houses in our lives, but solidly constructed. The third one is now coming up, into which we will move and want to sell the other two. According to our dream (which we could not realize before due to restrictive development plans), it should be a house in the Alpine chalet style, with 1.25m roof overhangs, plastered below, wood-clad above, small divided windows, etc., standing on a dream hillside property with a view.
Now it's about the different construction methods of timber frame houses. I have dealt intensively with all possible manufacturers and their wall constructions. I have not really found anything about the practice following the construction through research, and since you can probably not rely 100% on the distributors, all of whom claim to have the best wall system in the universe, I would like to raise a question here regarding prefabricated construction.

Providers like Schwabenhaus still sometimes use wall constructions today that "only" have 12mm drywall on the outside as well as inside. As a not quite inexperienced craftsman, I ask: How do you properly attach something in such houses without deliberately having to hit the stud cavity?
It is clear that drywall also has load-bearing properties, especially with drywall anchors. But: Whenever I use one, I pierce the vapor barrier that follows immediately after on all providers. That is a huge disadvantage, isn't it, or am I seeing something wrong here?
Bien-Zenker, for example, takes a different approach; they install Knauf Hardboard inside, which I already know from my own experience. It is like concrete; I would even categorize it as having better load-bearing capacity than brick. Likewise, Schwörerhaus (or others) install a wood-based panel behind the drywall layer inside, which is also highly load-bearing. The total thickness is always in the range of 12.5+18mm, so about 30mm, and you can attach quite a bit with 5-6x30mm wood screws. With their precise use, I can screw wherever I want and never hit the vapor barrier. Schwörerhaus even has, unlike all others, a composite panel on the outside with very high load-bearing capacity under the plaster carrier.

How is it intended at Schwabenhaus, for example? Technically, this provider is already disqualified because of this one thing, or is that, as said, wrong?

Best regards to all.

Hello,

you want a house in the Alpenchalet style. So why don't you build it like that? Stone solid on the bottom and solid wood on top?

Best regards

Hello,

The question about fastening in prefabricated houses with classic wall construction, which only provides drywall on both sides, is very justified. It is crucial that a drywall partition with bare drywall cladding has structurally limited load-bearing capacities – regardless of what sales arguments suggest. Without integrated wood-based panels behind the drywall, the options are actually severely restricted, since drilling for cavity anchors usually perforates the vapor barrier. Technically, systems with additional OSB/composite panels or Knauf hardboard on the interior side are clearly superior: load-bearing capacity, flexibility, and protection of the airtight layer are more convincingly resolved in practice.

Just beforehand: if it is supposed to be an Alpine chalet, none of the mentioned providers come to mind for me. I would rather think of a traditional Tyrolean timber house builder.

On the topic of vapor barrier/vapor retarder: the better ones therefore build with an installation layer. This is usually 60 mm thick until you reach the actual airtight layer. Whether the front part consists of gypsum board plus OSB or hardboard, or fermacell, is purely a matter of price.

And from now on the questions of belief begin: some swear by a diffusion-open wall construction, i.e., without plastic foil (put simply), but rely on OSB as a vapor retarder. Or also ESB, as already said, a matter of price. It continues with the type of insulation material. Some choose mineral wool, others "natural insulation materials" such as wood fiber, hemp, cellulose.

As plaster carrier board, some use polystyrene, others wood fiber insulation boards, which are even available pre-plastered. Of course, these are quality differences.

It is all a matter of price but also belief. I wouldn’t build today without an installation layer, just as little as with mineral wool. It is a completely different living climate. But everyone has to decide that for themselves.

And surely someone will soon say, only solid construction... (OK, that was a bit off-topic)

a house in alpine chalet style, 1.25m roof overhangs, plastered below, wood cladding above, small divided windows, etc., standing on a dream hillside plot with a view.

When I read that, I immediately think: "That is exclusively something for an architect." A typical prefab house builder with their standard houses designed for flat plots would come only at place 157. It's roughly like wanting to buy a Humvee and asking VW, Fiat, and Peugeot. But that's just a side note and not regarding the specific question.

How exactly do you properly fasten something in such houses without having to specifically hit the frame?

What do you want to fasten? That is the question. Normally, drywall is intended for about 40kg per running meter (at 30cm projection). Double-layered about 70kg. In the bathroom area, it is fastened on appropriate elements. In the kitchen, as mentioned, you can work with OSB or similar. Conclusion: For all normal applications, the normal drywall walls are sufficient, as 99% of the time you do not have very heavy loads. Most heavy loads are found in the kitchen or possibly with, for example, solid wood cabinets mounted suspended. But usually, you already know that in advance.

How exactly do you properly attach something in such houses without having to specifically hit the infill?

By, for example, having an upgrade installed on certain walls in the form of an additional board, meaning for an extra charge. This is often done in kitchen areas, but also commonly in bathrooms, where a second gypsum board according to DIN is installed where tiling is done. Our solid house has drywall interior walls on the upper floor. There, it is discussed on site with the drywall installer which wall you want to be reinforced, for example for hanging shelves. Elsewhere it makes no sense.

With a prefabricated house, you should consider in advance whether you need a reinforced wall or not. It costs extra, but that is basically the philosophy with house builders and model houses: first inexpensive in the standard offer, everything else you order additionally for an extra charge.