Reuse excavation soil – organic clay

  • Erstellt am 2019-07-06 09:11:05

Uwe.Hausbaufo

2019-07-07 08:20:18
  • #1
Thank you for your answers. If you want to improve the soil with sand and lime, what would be the ratio of clay/sand/lime?
 

Uwe.Hausbaufo

2019-07-07 08:40:31
  • #2
I am an absolute layman when it comes to gardening or landscaping. Currently, I could imagine the following on our property.

Due to the previous use and the condition, I would like to remove the rest of the property to a depth of about 0.2m. Afterwards, I would rebuild the soil excavated from the residential building on the removed area with a layer thickness of about 0.3m and then reinstall the sieved top layer about 0.1m + 0.2m topsoil on top.

Is something like this possible? Can I reinstall the excavated soil (clay) without further processing in a layer thickness of about 0.3m?

Would I have to compact the clay soil with a vibrating plate or improve it with sand as described by Tom?

What ratio of clay/sand/lime would I have to maintain if I want to use the excavation as a sublayer?
 

hampshire

2019-07-07 14:16:25
  • #3
Absolutely no vibrating plate. That will ruin your garden before it is even established. Ideally, add ripe compost, as this creates a crumbly and nutrient-rich soil when mixed with the clay soil. A crumbly structure is good against drying out and brings air into the soil. Mix in sand to improve the permeability of the soil – the soil loosens. Before the first frost, dig the soil deeply once or plow it. This prevents further compaction. Soil water freezes and "breaks" airiness into it. I would also introduce EM into the soil right at the beginning. EM are effective microorganisms that quickly and sustainably improve soil quality and accelerate and enhance humus formation. With good soil, you no longer need a "green thumb," as lawn and plants mostly take care of themselves.
 

Nordlys

2019-07-07 15:00:59
  • #4
We have a rather binding, clayey and/or loamy soil that we had distributed on the land after the construction using a mini excavator, not large equipment; doing it by hand would have been even better. We moved in in September and initially decided to plant only some shrubs and a hornbeam hedge for the winter, but to sow the lawn only in spring. First, we let the weeds grow; there was still a lot of rapeseed in the soil since the construction site had formerly been a rapeseed field. The growth was treated once with glyphosate. Clean. Shrubs planted; after glyphosate, wait at least 48 hours, then you can work the land again. The soil was broken up with a Rhenish hoe and made crumbly with a grubber. Winter. In spring, it was hoed and grubbed again. Lawn planted, no topsoil applied, only some sand worked in here and there. The lawn now needed a starter. Given wheat fertilizer once, mineral-based, with a spreader. Then it took off like a bat out of hell. Started mowing with a mulching mower. Through the mulching mower, signs of soil life soon appeared, worms and such. Now, after 18 months under grass, a good humus layer has formed; I have repeated fertilizing with wheat fertilizer, which consists of nitrogen (N), magnesium (Mg), some sulfur and phosphorus, and contains some potassium, about every six weeks; meanwhile, it fertilizes itself through mulching mowing. Thus, fertilizer applications have become more sparing. Since clayey soil is slightly acidic, the land received a garden lime treatment in March this year. Check YouTube on how to do it. Use slaked lime; unslaked lime is too dangerous, it burns plants too easily. The hornbeam hedge and all shrubs and bushes have taken well; they also always got some fertilizer. K.
 

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