Retrofitting underfloor heating district heating or electric

Just as an idea, attached is a picture of my currently installed wall heating. The system can also be installed on the floor. The system buildup height is only 2.5cm. On top of that, dry screed (Fermacell boards) can be laid directly + tile = total approx. 6-7cm. In addition, there is no water ingress like with cement or anhydrite screed, and the whole thing is quickly finished. DIY is also easily possible.

An electric underfloor heating is pretty much the most inefficient thing you can install. You can watch the electricity meter spin.
But the tiles do get warm. That is true. However, for 18-19 degrees, you don’t need an additional electric underfloor heating. That is already very cold.

Oh, then we were talking past each other. I was talking about the water underfloor heating. I see it the same way regarding the electric underfloor heating.
That would only be the alternative if the water underfloor heating cannot be installed.

If the screed is thick enough, there should be nothing against installing a water underfloor heating, right?

Just an idea, an image of my currently installed wall heating system attached. The system can also be installed on the floor. The system build-up height is only 2.5 cm. Dry screed (Fermacell boards) can be laid directly on top + tile = total approx. 6-7 cm. Additionally, there is no water input like with cement or anhydrite screed and the whole thing is finished quickly. Own work also easily possible.

Yes, roughly that would be the alternative to water underfloor heating. With an electric underfloor heating, of course, we would still need our radiator, and the electric UFH to warm the tiles, because the tiles are very cold here. Preferably an electric underfloor heating with the lowest power so that the electricity bill doesn’t explode. Still, I prefer the water underfloor heating.

Oh, so we were talking past each other. I was talking about the water underfloor heating. I see the same with the electric underfloor heating.

Good ;-) The only problem will be adapting to district heating. That has to be done by a professional. Including flooring, you need at least 7 cm including insulation (if the basement ceiling is also insulated). Regardless of whether it's dry screed or conventional.