HIGIL
2019-05-27 14:45:48
- #1
Hello Christian,
Floor outlets are not advisable in my opinion. They cause dust convection, and the air coming into the house is always a few degrees colder than the existing air, so it immediately sinks. A ceiling valve or wall valve in the upper third would be better. 45 m³/h for kitchen and bathroom are mandatory. So with a 75 mm flexible duct, you have to connect 2 ducts to one valve to keep the air velocity below 2.5 m/s and thus avoid drafts. Alternatively and even better, install 2 exhaust valves per exhaust room and operate each with only one duct; this would also give you a better distribution of the exhaust air in the room. I also miss the silencer in the exhaust air duct to the wall. As a recommendation, with 75 mm flexible duct never specify more than 30 m³/h. My device recommendation is only rotary heat exchangers. Advantages: moisture recovery, no system-related electrical preheating needed in winter, no condensate, factory-standard pollen filter.
Best regards
HIGIL
Floor outlets are not advisable in my opinion. They cause dust convection, and the air coming into the house is always a few degrees colder than the existing air, so it immediately sinks. A ceiling valve or wall valve in the upper third would be better. 45 m³/h for kitchen and bathroom are mandatory. So with a 75 mm flexible duct, you have to connect 2 ducts to one valve to keep the air velocity below 2.5 m/s and thus avoid drafts. Alternatively and even better, install 2 exhaust valves per exhaust room and operate each with only one duct; this would also give you a better distribution of the exhaust air in the room. I also miss the silencer in the exhaust air duct to the wall. As a recommendation, with 75 mm flexible duct never specify more than 30 m³/h. My device recommendation is only rotary heat exchangers. Advantages: moisture recovery, no system-related electrical preheating needed in winter, no condensate, factory-standard pollen filter.
Best regards
HIGIL