Insulating the interior timber frame wall + building up layer thickness

  • Erstellt am 2019-02-27 01:06:59

Maik Mohr

2019-02-27 01:06:59
  • #1
Hello community,

We recently bought a house, but unfortunately we now have to fix the botched work of the previous owner: In one room there was a musty smell, which was not noticeable before due to the commercial use portion. On the inside of the half-timbered exterior wall (weather and north side), panels were mounted, underneath them 20mm polystyrene boards with plenty of mold growth behind them.

I then removed all the wallpaper and plaster – down to the masonry/half-timber. Unfortunately, the infill panels are not flush with the beams – they sit about 20-30mm deeper. Previously this was built up with mortar and beaver tail tiles placed in front, but I didn’t want to do it that way anymore, especially since I don’t have roof tiles I could use.

My idea now is to plaster the infill panels properly and then glue wood fiberboard onto the plaster. I would then either set these flush with the beam or about 10-15mm in front of the beams and bring the beams to a flush height with straw and clay plaster. Finally, from the outside, screw on a layer of 20-30mm wood fiberboard, primarily to close gaps and provide basic insulation. Above that then a clay or lime plaster.

What do you think? Can you do it this way since it is diffusion-open or would that be a no-go? If the idea is rubbish – please suggest something. Unfortunately, I am very far from this field and this measure was not planned in the budget. I also didn’t want to fully line the infill panels with clay mortar – that would probably take weeks to dry completely.

Regarding the pictures: The beams are also badly gnawed, but stable in the core (good oak). The worm gnawed itself on the damp side. But it will be repaired.

Best regards – Maik


 

Lumpi_LE

2019-02-27 11:12:36
  • #2
No, that doesn’t work like that.
Insulating a timber frame from the inside is quite demanding; if you have the necessary cash, have a specialist company do it, or at least work together with one.

Here are a few brief notes on what would be necessary:
- Ceilings and floors must also be exposed
- Ceilings and floors must be prepared so that a moisture barrier spanning rooms and floors can be installed
- The masonry must first be sealed from the outside to be waterproof but vapor permeable
- There are various options for insulation; proven is a complete stud frame over all exterior walls and then boards or blown-in insulation
- The inside must then be fitted without gaps with a vapor barrier, followed by e.g. drywall

If you have never done anything like this before, you won’t manage it.
Your idea leads to what you have already found.

Easier, cheaper, and safer is an exterior insulation.
 

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