Patkia
2020-12-17 12:20:03
- #1
Yes, that's exactly how it is. The statics only provided for 17.5 cm bricks and only these three walls. That means I step directly from the house wall into the garage. To still ensure the necessary stability, the 2 reinforced concrete columns were necessary and that the open partition wall was created as a "door passage." Hence the masonry pillar for the partition wall. The positions are marked in my last post.
Are two cars supposed to fit side by side? Then it really gets tight with the 5.60m. You would ideally have to park staggered to open the doors properly, especially if you might still have a cabinet or something similar in the garage. Or are you also building with a partition wall? Then, depending on the vehicle, staggered parking will also be a bit difficult.
No, the floor slabs were poured in one piece. Unfortunately, I can't take a photo from the front now of how it is attached because everything is already plastered and you can no longer see any joint. I can only give you a tip: if you make a reinforced concrete column on the house masonry, separate them in some way. I didn't do this on the advice of my bricklayers and then only quickly made a formwork late into the night so I could use the concrete from the delivery for the house ceiling the next morning. Afterwards, I was repeatedly told that this should have been separated to prevent the plaster from cracking there and also for acoustic separation reasons.
And I will briefly list the remaining steps I carried out. (yes, I deviated somewhat from the actual statics, but with every deviation, I always talked intensively with experts beforehand about which alternative is equivalent or even better)
The ring beam was clamped onto the masonry with formwork boards so that it has the wall thickness all around, i.e. 17.5 cm. Of course, reinforced all around, and each corner properly executed professionally. This is really important; inform yourself about it. I don't remember exactly anymore, but I think there were 6 angles per corner like: inside inside, outside outside, inside outside. The same top and bottom. But please check that again exactly. I poured the ring beam with a slope and saved myself the extra lintel for the gate. So my ring beam is about 34 cm high at the front, 20 cm at the back. At my 5-meter gate opening, it was then poured correspondingly lower, so that it is about 55 cm high above the gate. For this, I had a steel basket drawn up with the corresponding steel diameters by a structural engineer/reinforced concrete manufacturer, which I then built myself. It was about 6.20m long and about 52 cm high with stirrups approximately every 10cm and 6 steel rods of 16–12 mm thickness. For this, I left out the stones at the upper area of the masonry supports at the gate so that the basket also has a lot of bearing surface to relieve the entire lintel (just as every lintel must have a certain bearing surface).
To increase the slope even more, I then drilled rafter supports onto the ring beam. I believe 14 cm thick at the front, 10 cm on the partition wall, and 8 cm on the back wall. I laid the rafters in whole, without the rafter joint on the center wall as specified in the statics. However, there was consultation with the structural engineer who then recommended not to completely nail the rafters at the very back end but to use slightly longer nails, leaving about 2 cm sticking out. The reason for this is that under heavy load in the middle of the roof, the partition wall could act as a lever on a rafter, which could in the worst case lift the ring beam on the back wall. All in all, I achieved exactly 2% slope this way. Additionally, I constructed an eave all around because I simply found it nicer and more practical. I won't go into more detail about this because I think it is not interesting for everyone, or you could simply buy longer rafters (in my case, this was not possible due to chance, as I already had them locally... but in the "wrong" length, i.e., without an overhang). The roof was then covered with 22mm OSB, provided with roofing sheets, welded shut, and finished. Man, how easy it sounds to write this, but how much research, time, effort, and blood went into these things. I only carried out the last tasks of it the week before last at subzero temperatures. But that is just a side story =D
Ok, this turned out to be a bit longer now. If you want to know more details, feel free to ask. As soon as I have time, I will gladly give you information.
And finally, a note. My text really only briefly summarizes what I DID and is not an invitation to the DIYer to execute it exactly the same way. It was absolutely important to me to build everything as professionally correct as possible because it is a lifetime project and not just for a few years. During this time, I spent an incredible amount of time with Google, YouTube, but mostly in conversations with real experts to get experienced opinions, especially for special, unusual ideas, so that it does not collapse someday or just look like a patchwork job.
Are two cars supposed to fit side by side? Then it really gets tight with the 5.60m. You would ideally have to park staggered to open the doors properly, especially if you might still have a cabinet or something similar in the garage. Or are you also building with a partition wall? Then, depending on the vehicle, staggered parking will also be a bit difficult.
No, the floor slabs were poured in one piece. Unfortunately, I can't take a photo from the front now of how it is attached because everything is already plastered and you can no longer see any joint. I can only give you a tip: if you make a reinforced concrete column on the house masonry, separate them in some way. I didn't do this on the advice of my bricklayers and then only quickly made a formwork late into the night so I could use the concrete from the delivery for the house ceiling the next morning. Afterwards, I was repeatedly told that this should have been separated to prevent the plaster from cracking there and also for acoustic separation reasons.
And I will briefly list the remaining steps I carried out. (yes, I deviated somewhat from the actual statics, but with every deviation, I always talked intensively with experts beforehand about which alternative is equivalent or even better)
The ring beam was clamped onto the masonry with formwork boards so that it has the wall thickness all around, i.e. 17.5 cm. Of course, reinforced all around, and each corner properly executed professionally. This is really important; inform yourself about it. I don't remember exactly anymore, but I think there were 6 angles per corner like: inside inside, outside outside, inside outside. The same top and bottom. But please check that again exactly. I poured the ring beam with a slope and saved myself the extra lintel for the gate. So my ring beam is about 34 cm high at the front, 20 cm at the back. At my 5-meter gate opening, it was then poured correspondingly lower, so that it is about 55 cm high above the gate. For this, I had a steel basket drawn up with the corresponding steel diameters by a structural engineer/reinforced concrete manufacturer, which I then built myself. It was about 6.20m long and about 52 cm high with stirrups approximately every 10cm and 6 steel rods of 16–12 mm thickness. For this, I left out the stones at the upper area of the masonry supports at the gate so that the basket also has a lot of bearing surface to relieve the entire lintel (just as every lintel must have a certain bearing surface).
To increase the slope even more, I then drilled rafter supports onto the ring beam. I believe 14 cm thick at the front, 10 cm on the partition wall, and 8 cm on the back wall. I laid the rafters in whole, without the rafter joint on the center wall as specified in the statics. However, there was consultation with the structural engineer who then recommended not to completely nail the rafters at the very back end but to use slightly longer nails, leaving about 2 cm sticking out. The reason for this is that under heavy load in the middle of the roof, the partition wall could act as a lever on a rafter, which could in the worst case lift the ring beam on the back wall. All in all, I achieved exactly 2% slope this way. Additionally, I constructed an eave all around because I simply found it nicer and more practical. I won't go into more detail about this because I think it is not interesting for everyone, or you could simply buy longer rafters (in my case, this was not possible due to chance, as I already had them locally... but in the "wrong" length, i.e., without an overhang). The roof was then covered with 22mm OSB, provided with roofing sheets, welded shut, and finished. Man, how easy it sounds to write this, but how much research, time, effort, and blood went into these things. I only carried out the last tasks of it the week before last at subzero temperatures. But that is just a side story =D
Ok, this turned out to be a bit longer now. If you want to know more details, feel free to ask. As soon as I have time, I will gladly give you information.
And finally, a note. My text really only briefly summarizes what I DID and is not an invitation to the DIYer to execute it exactly the same way. It was absolutely important to me to build everything as professionally correct as possible because it is a lifetime project and not just for a few years. During this time, I spent an incredible amount of time with Google, YouTube, but mostly in conversations with real experts to get experienced opinions, especially for special, unusual ideas, so that it does not collapse someday or just look like a patchwork job.