Floor plan design for a single-family house with a granny flat

You should patent the super cool move of flattening the property by reinterpreting the one-meter contour lines (of the otherwise practically unreadable) "surveyor's plan" as quarter-meter lines for the floor plan design!

Understandably, for me this ends any discussion of details.
Except, of course, to add myself to the list of those who caught you with the planning blunder "upper floor only after ground floor." By the way, you can tell by the blood in the shoe (therefore I will henceforth call it "Cinderella planning") [hheh].

Unfortunately, the labeling of the contour lines cannot be read. Can you upload it in better quality? I hope has misinterpreted something here. If I use your information, then the contour lines have a 0.5 m spacing.

In your opinion, the building envelope is fully utilized. Please draw it in on the site plan. If there is a development plan, then please show it to us.

At least show us a plan so that we can assess the surroundings. Where is the street? Is that a retaining wall in the SW?

1m height difference over 9m. I don’t see a problem there. We have 1.2m over 8m and therefore still a relatively flat driveway compared to many around here.

That said, I’m not saying I like the positioning of the house and garage. I estimate the landscaping will cost a larger five-figure amount, unless a raised terrace and stairs to the garden are planned.

I have been reading here for some time now

Then you would have read that more information is helpful and a dialogue is very useful.

What are aluminum frame partition walls? I have never seen them before.

Without knowing the development plan or the surroundings and that the contour lines have a 0.5 m spacing, in my opinion, it is much better this way.

Then you would have read that more information is helpful and a dialogue is very useful.

And that "dialogue" often cannot primarily mean "applause."

What are aluminum stud walls? I've never seen them.

I haven't really seen "wood stud walls" for many years either. Probably meant are what I would call "standard" lightweight walls with metal profile construction. Here the OP should have reasonably explained why at certain points apparently "timber beams" are preferred as the framework – does he want to build these himself, and leave the metal ones to the professional ("trained" I don't want to say) drywall installers?