Epoxy resin floor on concrete screed

  • Erstellt am 2011-05-20 07:45:17

One00

2016-04-13 13:50:19
  • #1
Hello wrobel, yes, there is experience. First of all, something about the appearance: we did not aim for a concrete look with this coating but, let's say, an epoxy resin look. We have enough visible concrete "in real life" in the house. The application is actually very easy. Prime on Friday, apply resin on Saturday, apply top seal (transparent) on Sunday, done. Two people, about 75 sqm. It stinks for a week, then no more. The floor is smooth, I hardly dared to step on it the next day because it still looked completely wet. Mixing the hardener with the resin was annoying. It was very exhausting but must be done 100% correctly so that the mixture cures completely later. Once a batch is mixed, the content is simply poured out and spread with a notched trowel with a long handle, very easy. The stuff is self-leveling but therefore also runs into every little crack. It cost us about 12,-/sqm total including primer and sealant.
 

dekofrank

2016-07-04 14:58:11
  • #2
Hello everyone here in the forum. We are a new young company and have taken on the issue of "Home coatings." The result is a designer product that is now available in various colors and effects, as transparent or color-transparent, etc. Design coatings are the trend of today. We give you all the tips you need for your coating, whether on floors, garage floors, screed, existing substrates such as tiles or stone, wood, furniture surfaces, kitchen countertops, worktops, or anywhere else. Have a look at us or feel free to contact us by email. I am always interested in exchanging ideas. Dekofrank from decorelle© Design Coatings. decorelle.de




 

KlaRa

2016-07-04 15:37:26
  • #3
Hello "One00". You should reconsider the "just pour and done" approach. For synthetic resins based on reactive resin, you can only calculate about €12.00 to €15.00 for EPs and around €18.00 to €27.00 per kg just in material costs. The task of reactive resin coatings, which are usually applied in installation thicknesses of about 2mm and (due to air inclusions) relieved, is not to even out unevenness of the substrate. Especially after pulling with a rubber squeegee, you will neither get the application thickness nor a uniform surface appearance. Processing can only be done with difficulty by a layman, because there are several things to consider right from mixing the components, which must be classified at least as "IRRITANT" in the liquid state. That was your first question. Without the appropriate tools and the experience regarding the correct speed of the basket stirrer, it won't work! I already mentioned the appearance. Whoever sets demands above zero must know HOW to process it. And properly prepare the coating substrate. This includes, besides sanding and determining the surface tensile strength, also priming. If you ignore all that and hope for the luck bonus, you might be taught better after just 2 weeks due to what then happens. The subsequent removal of the coating is, by the way, somewhat more complicated than the proper installation. And long-term behavior? It is like with any composite structure: properly installed, nothing changes in the (visual) original condition over the years. ------------------------------------- How you proceed from here is entirely up to you. I myself have neither the intention to educate others nor to point fingers at others. I only want you to be prompted to think by my professional advice from my field of expertise. Regards and good luck: KlaRa
 

One00

2016-07-04 17:09:14
  • #4
Hello KlaRa, thanks for the tips. But it’s too late
I have had the material stored in the basement for over a year and am very satisfied. I would say we are far from any upcoming dismantling.
Of course, we followed all safety regulations during installation and especially when mixing. The company where we finally bought the material gave us exemplary advice and warned us about possible dangers when in contact with the resin (allergic reactions).
By the way, the floor is not smooth at all, it just looks that way. That means it is very slip-resistant, even though we did not sprinkle any sand. We are very happy with the result and would do it exactly the same way again.
 

Bieber0815

2016-07-12 06:48:51
  • #5
What exactly did you buy?
 

One00

2016-07-12 10:16:02
  • #6
2k epoxy resin coating in light gray instead of white due to better UV resistance.
Pour one container of resin into one container of base stuff, stir with a stirring rod for 5 minutes, transfer to another container and stir again for 3 minutes. Then pour out, spread with a notched trowel and degas if necessary, which actually wasn't needed for us.

Apply epoxy primer beforehand and a transparent top seal afterward. Extremely scratch-resistant, acid- and plasticizer-resistant, very clean surface and super easy to clean. Only two small imperfections got stuck in it.
 

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