Electrical planning / lighting planning / network for new construction - experiences?

The network cables come out of the ceiling as normal cables. I would screw a UniFi Access Point to the ceiling and connect it via RJ45 with POE. Does the ceiling have to be suspended for something like this?

If only the cable without a socket comes out of the ceiling, then you have the problem of where the cable should go, because the back side of the APs usually only has a very small hollow space. You can put a field-installable connector on a patch cable, but it is so bulky that you can’t insert it into the access point. Usually, you put a keystone module on the patch cable and then use a short patch cable to the access point. The rest of the patch cable, keystone module, and patch cable are hidden in the socket box, and the access point is mounted over it. With a suspended ceiling, you don’t need a socket because you can push the cable back into the ceiling cavity. Didn’t you get any information beforehand?

I wanted a network socket outdoors in case someone wants to work on the terrace sometime. :) Maybe this could also be solved via WLAN, but frankly, I don’t know how good the WLAN quality is with Poroton bricks. How should I secure this network socket?

If someone plugs in their laptop at night, they are directly in your entire network. Do you want that? Access to the network sockets must be prevented. Either you install the network sockets in a lockable box or you set up a RADIUS server in your network. But the easiest would be to mount an outdoor access point. I would mount it at a height that requires at least a ladder to reach it.

I don't understand the ceiling outlets in the kitchen (and elsewhere, e.g. bathroom) at all. They partly look as if they were scattered around the room like billiard balls. When you distribute more outlets, you either grid or halve, take diagonals, equal wall distances, central lines, third lines, or whatever. But you can't avoid some logic if it shouldn't stand out unpleasantly.
And yes, planning can become very exhausting.

I oriented the planning of the ceiling outlets on the kitchen layout. For example, kitchen cabinet 60cm deep and distance between the kitchen island and kitchen cabinet 1m. Half of that makes 0.6m + 0.5m = 1.1m. Then the ceiling outlet is exactly centered between the kitchen island and kitchen cabinet.

I don't know what you mean by gridding, halving, diagonals. Can you explain that more precisely, preferably with an example?

Basically, you should already think about what you want to achieve with so many outlets in the kitchen. We don't know if you just like spots so much or think there need to be spotlights everywhere now. You are flexible with tracks. Do you know what is supposed to be above the stove?
You illuminate the countertop for example under or integrated into hanging cabinets. Those are then integrated into the kitchen order and only need one socket per row because they are connected in series.

To be honest, I'm not yet sure what we will do here.

Idea 1: My first idea was to install 4 spots and a larger lamp above the stove. I (still?) don't want to lower the ceiling because our room height is only about 2.55m. Therefore, I would take surface-mounted spots.

Idea 2: Simply distribute 3 ceiling lights with relatively high brightness in the room, e.g. 1900 lumens. Above the stove a nice extractor hood.

Idea 3: Suspended ceiling with many spots and a larger lamp in the middle.

What do you think? I'm currently leaning towards idea 2.

In bedrooms, I would plan one ceiling outlet, centered and two sockets for bedside lamp and floor lamp.

The bigger the room, the more you need. That's why I don't understand your question.
Child 3 gets by with one ceiling outlet just like Child 1.
Bedroom as well. But if you want the wardrobe illuminated, I would distribute four spots at window midpoint height parallel to the wardrobe, the fourth centrally in front of the door, and correspondingly space the others. A dresser does well with a table lamp.

Definitely. This light is more important than glaring ceiling light.

For us it's similar, but we still have the 160 cm one. Similar because a dresser is planned on the right side as with us. Pull the dresser away from the wall side and then place the bed centered from that. Switch also centered from the bed. And if all that changes once, and the dresser goes away, the bed moves because it looks nicer differently, then that’s fine and not a problem.

The DIN 18015-2 specifies how many light outlets a room should have. That’s why the question with 16.5 sqm. The DIN states that everything from 16 sqm should have 2 ceiling outlets.

If only the cable without a socket comes out of the ceiling, then you have the problem of where the cable should go, because on the back side the APs usually only have a very small hollow space. You can put a field-terminable connector on a patch cable, but it is so bulky that you can't plug it into the access point. Usually, a keystone module is placed onto the patch cable and then a short patch cable goes to the access point. The rest of the patch cable, keystone module, and patch cable are hidden in the socket box, and the access point is mounted above it. With a suspended ceiling, you don't need a socket box because the cable can be pushed back into the ceiling cavity. Didn't get any information beforehand?

No, not really yet. My "network time" was a few years ago. In case of doubt, I would have said that I would connect the access point directly with the patch cable. Of course, that's not clean. How would you solve this?

If someone plugs in their laptop at night, they are immediately inside your entire network. Do you want that? Access to the network sockets must be prevented. Either you install the network sockets in a lockable box or you set up a RADIUS server in your network. The easiest way, however, would be to mount an outdoor access point. I would mount it at a height that requires at least a ladder to reach it.

Good point! Of course, I don't want that. My idea here was to create a virtual network for the outdoor area that only has access to the internet. But that's not ideal either. Better to leave it out?

Idea 2: Simply distribute 3 ceiling lights with relatively high luminous intensity in the room, e.g. 1900 lumens. Above the cooktop a nice extractor hood.

I said it in my example: ceiling light is not work lighting. You need light near the board and hand. If you plan an extractor hood, then you don’t need light there because it is integrated in the hood. As already said, this is all inconsistent. Why is no work lighting planned in the kitchen design?

I based the planning of the ceiling outlets on the kitchen layout. For example, kitchen cabinet 60cm deep and distance between cooking island and kitchen cabinet 1m. Half of that makes 0.6m + 0.5m = 1.1m. Then the ceiling outlet is exactly centered between the cooking island and the kitchen cabinet.

And what exactly is this light supposed to illuminate? Lighting planning is also part of the kitchen planning, where light is needed at the worktop.

Just build an access point, mounted outside or inside on the wall, that you only turn on when you want to work outside?

Our children's rooms are 15.5m² and I wouldn't know what to do with 2 ceiling outlets there? The older one has a chandelier, if I screw in 5x8 watt LEDs there, you’d think you’re standing on a beach in Dubai under full sun in the middle of the night... I have 2 outlets in the 40m² living room. A floor lamp will go by the desk anyway, a bedside lamp by the bed. The dressing table has integrated lighting, how much more do you need?

In the kitchen, people usually have upper cabinets? Light strips are recessed there. Otherwise? Pendant lights, especially for islands or free legs possibly with a bar, you want the light where you chop, not at 2.5m height. For overall lighting, especially if you can see from the living room into the kitchen, think about "indirect" lighting. So a wall light, for example, that you can’t see from the living room.

If you’re thinking so much about it and it’s obviously that important to you, go to a lighting planner.