Did I forget something in the first drywall?

I want to build two drywall partitions myself in the basement of our new building. I have chosen a thickness of 50mm, but it can also be increased to 75mm or 100mm. Since the walls are only for room separation, 50mm should be sufficient.

The wall should be 2.6m high and 6m long including the door.

I currently consider the number of 21 CW stud profiles to be very high. Other drywall calculators come up with 7-10.

Item: Quantity

Construction board (2,000 x 600 x 12.5 mm) 21
CW stud profile (2,600 x 50 x 50 mm, steel sheet) 21
UW frame profile (2,000 x 50 x 40 mm, steel sheet) 7
Acrylic sealant white 300 ml 5
Sealing tape one-sided adhesive 50 mm, 30 m 1
Toggle bolt K6/35 (35 mm, 50 pcs.) 1
Drywall screw (diameter: 3.9 mm, length: 25 mm, countersunk head, fine thread, 1,000 pcs.) 1
Partition boards / insulation material (1,250 x 625 x 40 mm) 3
Joint filler (25 kg, light gray) 1
Drywall screw (diameter: 3.5 mm, length: 25 mm, fine thread, 1,000 pcs.) 1
Door post plug-in angle (50 x 130 x 135 mm, 4 pcs.) 1
Door lintel profile (1,600 x 50 x 40 mm) 1
Stiffening profile UA (2,600 x 50 x 40 mm, steel sheet) 2
Door frame (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left/right, uni white, wall thickness: 80 mm) 1
Room door (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left, uni white, honeycomb) 1

I wouldn't rely on a calculator there, but simply make a sketch with pencil and paper. Depending on how wide your drywall panels are (in your case 600 mm), you will need a CW stud profile to fasten every 600 mm. Also, I would consider whether you might want to use taller drywall panels right away so that you don't have a joint up to the ceiling. With the 2 m high panels, you still have to screw on another 0.6 m either at the top or the bottom everywhere.

Manufacturers provide specifications on how wall constructions must be executed depending on the static load. At a wall height of 2.60m and a free length of 6m, CW50 profiles are, in my opinion, too narrow. The wall will hold, but it may not be stiff enough and will "bulge" like a membrane. This will become apparent at the door and when slamming the door. Alternatively, you can double-layer the cladding, with 2x12.5mm and staggered joints. You should use the one-person boards measuring 260x60cm, vertically, and ensure that the boards rest continuously on the substructure along all edges. Do not build free, unsupported joints. The basement must, of course, be absolutely dry (newly built basement) and show no condensation in summer. GKB boards are very sensitive to moisture. If this cannot be ruled out, gypsum fiberboards, for example from Fermacell, are the better choice. However, they come in different formats and are somewhat more difficult to work with.

The wall length is not yet 100% fixed, so the wall can also be somewhat shorter. But if 75mm or 100mm are better, then we can also switch to that. The walls are primarily there to divide the basement into 3 rooms.

I have also read that GKB is very sensitive to moisture and mold can form quickly. A newly built basement will certainly still contain some moisture. Although the completion is planned for the summer, since it is the basement, this will probably have little effect.

These single-person panels are a good idea. How is it actually? One panel has a width of 600mm. If I start completely on the left at the basement wall, then after 600mm I place a CW profile where the first panel then ends in the middle and I start the second panel there (so that both panels are screwed into the same profile)?

I would never screw the boards vertically single-layered onto vertical studs. If you use OSB instead of gypsum plasterboard as the first layer, you have the advantage that the joints do not necessarily have to lie on a stud, since tongue and groove already provide stability. I still have one question: Which drywall calculator (never heard of such a thing!) comes up with 7 profiles for 6m length? Forget that, especially if a door is supposed to be installed there. 21 sounds reasonable, but as mentioned above, I would sketch it out and not rely on a calculator. Otherwise, the shopping list sounds plausible, but I just skimmed through it briefly. I can highly recommend the Knauf videos on this topic. Especially since the two gentlemen are really funny, somewhat like Isover if anyone knows those videos.

If you use OSB instead of GKB as the first layer

....you also have the advantage of being able to attach things to the wall without any worries.

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