Did I forget something in the first drywall?

The walls are only supposed to serve as room dividers (well, 1.5 of them). The basement is one large room. From that, we want to section off a laundry / utility room, a storage cellar, and a home cinema room. Only the side that faces inside the cinema I would sheathe with a single layer. But you immediately mention two layers. Is that really necessary for a drywall partition wall that is supposed to be nothing more than a room divider?

I don’t understand the vertical on upright stud work. In all the instructions I found, it was done like that.

Double cladding doesn’t cost much more and brings significantly more stability, better sound insulation, and you can attach things to the wall much better. Do you need these advantages today? Maybe not today, but maybe tomorrow.

The profiles always stand vertically. If one board is connected to four instead of two studs (because mounted horizontally), the entire structure logically becomes many times more stable. The picture on Hornbach’s page looks professional, as I assume it shows the second layer mounted at a 90-degree angle – that is, vertically – to the first layer.

Okay. I had read that for single-layer at least 12.5mm thickness should be used. Can I then go back to 9.5mm for double-layer?

Yes, but why? Space saving? Savings?
No, seriously, it’s possible, of course.

By the way, you can definitely mount the 2.60m boards vertically, but then you have to adjust the stud spacing so that there is a profile on the left, right, and center of the board. With 60cm board width, this results in a distance from profile center to profile center of 30cm... And saving on the profiles makes sense – unlike the boards – especially since you have hardly any advantages besides saving time.
So my tip:
- first layer OSB, then drywall. If not desired, then drywall twice (9.5 or 12.5) --> advantages see above
- first layer horizontal, second layer vertical
- use normal drywall screws; the self-drilling ones for metal stud framing are just expensive, otherwise I have no personal experience of any advantages of these screws. When working with OSB, use the corresponding screws again.
- a bit of effort when filling saves a lot of effort and mess when sanding

And don't forget to decouple both the stud frame and the panels of the floor, ceiling, and wall.


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Thanks for all the tips. The Rigips construction planner really doesn’t like it when you choose double cladding. Then it won’t let me install any doors anymore.

* For the panel format you have chosen, double cladding with cross-laying must be executed. This makes it no longer easily possible to properly construct cutouts for windows or doors while maintaining the minimum distances. In the next step, you have no possibility to insert cutouts into the construction. However, if you want cutouts, you need to select a large-format panel, e.g. the Rigips construction panel RB 12.5.

I had chosen Rigips 1-person panel “The White” 12.5

Hmm, with the following panel I can select double cladding:

Rigips construction panel RB 9.5

2500 x 1250 mm

With this panel, it becomes a bit more difficult to lay one layer vertically and one horizontally. Although a door cutout is always more complicated if I lay one layer horizontally and one vertically, isn’t it?

I still don’t quite understand the door depth. The smallest depth is 80 mm. The profile is 50 mm + 12.5 mm per side, which results in 75 mm. That leaves a difference of 5 mm (is that for the plaster?).