Combination of tiles and parquet

  • Erstellt am 2016-07-20 21:54:54

KlaRa

2016-07-21 18:51:34
  • #1
:
I was made aware of your thread by "Neige," which I can answer as follows:

    [*]Can heating technology encounter problems if there are different floor coverings in one heating circuit, in our case the tiles and the new parquet?

The answer to this is NO (there are no problems)

    [*]Is there anything specific that must be observed or considered when "repairing" the screed?

For example, if ceramic tiles are removed from a heated screed surface, the HOW matters. If an unsuitable removal technique is used, the screed surface will be damaged (which does not affect the heating circuits since they lie at a minimum depth of 40 mm), which is not a problem but does lead to additional leveling or reprofiling measures.

    [*]Should the oak parquet boards preferably be laid lengthwise (of the room) or parallel to the width? The dining-living area where the parquet should be laid is about 5x10 m in size.

This cannot be said remotely. Even with oak, there is the so-called spatial effect depending on how the intensity of the wood’s texture presents itself. The decisive factor for the laying direction should actually be the light incidence (thus the position of the windows).

    [*]Should the possibility of laying the parquet "floating" possibly also be considered?

Basically, this laying method can be included in the consideration. However, if the tiles underneath remain, there will certainly be problems due to the increased thermal resistance. In floating installation, the unavoidable air cushion causes this resistance to be quite high, so you may have problems with the necessary heating of the room in winter. The ideal for underfloor heating is always a fixed bond (hence the gluing).

    [*]Is there anything against aluminum strips at the edge from tiles to parquet, where the strip has a 90-degree angle, one side on the tiles, the other side the parquet, and a silicone joint between strip and parquet?

Basically, it must be noted that the tiles in the room where the parquet is to be laid later are more than just a disturbance. For the above-mentioned reason (also when gluing the parquet boards or strips!).
If the tiles in a room were removed, we get a stepped offset of around 13 mm (tile + adhesive). Depending on which parquet construction you choose later, the thickness to be planned for this (parquet + adhesive) can be assumed to be around 18 mm to 25 mm.
This means that later, towards the kitchen, we would get a height offset between 5 mm and 12 mm.
5 mm is practically unproblematic; at 12 mm and above, the risk of tripping is pre-programmed.
Solution in the latter case:
The cement screed is ground down ramp-like by approx. 7 mm from the living room towards the kitchen, over a length of about 0.6 m and the door width + 20 cm.
At first glance, this approach seems questionable because of the load-bearing capacity of the cement screed, but it is not. There are reasons for this that I will refrain from explaining here. The load-bearing capacity is always guaranteed despite the reduction in thickness!
Due to the "ramping," we obtain only a justifiable height offset of a few millimeters towards the kitchen, which can be covered by any transition strip.
The solution with the aluminum strip is something for hobbyists without background knowledge; we others should leave this path :-)
---------------------------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
 

Neige

2016-07-21 19:01:51
  • #2
Thank you for your prompt response , I was a bit unsure regarding the underfloor heating. This will help the OP and I am once again well provided with information.
 

pst90

2016-07-21 22:47:45
  • #3
Thank you very much for your detailed answers :-)

Regarding the affected room in "L" shape: There is NO wall between the two partial rooms (kitchen and dining-living area) (because you mentioned a door), everything is open! That means you could sand this ramp along the entire length of the edge of the two partial rooms!?

Furthermore, it is out of the question to glue the parquet ON the tiles, the tiles will be removed. Regarding the removal of the tiles: What is the best way to proceed here? Is it really possible to remove the tiles in such a way that the screed does not need to be repaired?

I don’t know how high the current tiles + adhesive are, how do you come to the conclusion that there will definitely be a big edge if the parquet + adhesive will be 18-25mm? :-)

Regarding the light incidence, on all sides of the room with (future) parquet there are windows and also terrace doors, the long side is the sunny side.

Regarding the aluminum strip: I probably expressed myself incorrectly, my small aluminum strip is NOT lying ON both coverings, but rather a stainless steel strip with a 90-degree angle, where one side rests against the tile edge, the other side rests on the screed, and the parquet is glued “on top” of it.

Thank you for your constructive and quick answers! :-)

Best regards Patrick
 

Peanuts74

2016-07-27 14:14:48
  • #4
"Normal" porcelain stoneware floor tiles are usually 10 - 11mm thick, plus about 3mm of adhesive, making a total thickness of approximately 13-14mm for the tile flooring. Parquet is naturally thicker, so you will have a step of about 1 cm... However, the professional should be able to level this, as someone already mentioned.
 

Neige

2016-07-27 17:15:54
  • #5
Properly planned, i.e. tile thickness, parquet, and adhesive, this can also be done without a transition strip.
 

RobsonMKK

2016-07-27 18:44:49
  • #6
And down go the tiles with caution. I did it partly with the hammer drill, partly by hand. And I ground off the tile adhesive with a diamond grinding disc.
 

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