KlaRa
2016-07-21 18:51:34
- #1
:
I was made aware of your thread by "Neige," which I can answer as follows:
The answer to this is NO (there are no problems)
For example, if ceramic tiles are removed from a heated screed surface, the HOW matters. If an unsuitable removal technique is used, the screed surface will be damaged (which does not affect the heating circuits since they lie at a minimum depth of 40 mm), which is not a problem but does lead to additional leveling or reprofiling measures.
This cannot be said remotely. Even with oak, there is the so-called spatial effect depending on how the intensity of the wood’s texture presents itself. The decisive factor for the laying direction should actually be the light incidence (thus the position of the windows).
Basically, this laying method can be included in the consideration. However, if the tiles underneath remain, there will certainly be problems due to the increased thermal resistance. In floating installation, the unavoidable air cushion causes this resistance to be quite high, so you may have problems with the necessary heating of the room in winter. The ideal for underfloor heating is always a fixed bond (hence the gluing).
Basically, it must be noted that the tiles in the room where the parquet is to be laid later are more than just a disturbance. For the above-mentioned reason (also when gluing the parquet boards or strips!).
If the tiles in a room were removed, we get a stepped offset of around 13 mm (tile + adhesive). Depending on which parquet construction you choose later, the thickness to be planned for this (parquet + adhesive) can be assumed to be around 18 mm to 25 mm.
This means that later, towards the kitchen, we would get a height offset between 5 mm and 12 mm.
5 mm is practically unproblematic; at 12 mm and above, the risk of tripping is pre-programmed.
Solution in the latter case:
The cement screed is ground down ramp-like by approx. 7 mm from the living room towards the kitchen, over a length of about 0.6 m and the door width + 20 cm.
At first glance, this approach seems questionable because of the load-bearing capacity of the cement screed, but it is not. There are reasons for this that I will refrain from explaining here. The load-bearing capacity is always guaranteed despite the reduction in thickness!
Due to the "ramping," we obtain only a justifiable height offset of a few millimeters towards the kitchen, which can be covered by any transition strip.
The solution with the aluminum strip is something for hobbyists without background knowledge; we others should leave this path :-)
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Good luck: KlaRa
I was made aware of your thread by "Neige," which I can answer as follows:
[*]Can heating technology encounter problems if there are different floor coverings in one heating circuit, in our case the tiles and the new parquet?
The answer to this is NO (there are no problems)
[*]Is there anything specific that must be observed or considered when "repairing" the screed?
For example, if ceramic tiles are removed from a heated screed surface, the HOW matters. If an unsuitable removal technique is used, the screed surface will be damaged (which does not affect the heating circuits since they lie at a minimum depth of 40 mm), which is not a problem but does lead to additional leveling or reprofiling measures.
[*]Should the oak parquet boards preferably be laid lengthwise (of the room) or parallel to the width? The dining-living area where the parquet should be laid is about 5x10 m in size.
This cannot be said remotely. Even with oak, there is the so-called spatial effect depending on how the intensity of the wood’s texture presents itself. The decisive factor for the laying direction should actually be the light incidence (thus the position of the windows).
[*]Should the possibility of laying the parquet "floating" possibly also be considered?
Basically, this laying method can be included in the consideration. However, if the tiles underneath remain, there will certainly be problems due to the increased thermal resistance. In floating installation, the unavoidable air cushion causes this resistance to be quite high, so you may have problems with the necessary heating of the room in winter. The ideal for underfloor heating is always a fixed bond (hence the gluing).
[*]Is there anything against aluminum strips at the edge from tiles to parquet, where the strip has a 90-degree angle, one side on the tiles, the other side the parquet, and a silicone joint between strip and parquet?
Basically, it must be noted that the tiles in the room where the parquet is to be laid later are more than just a disturbance. For the above-mentioned reason (also when gluing the parquet boards or strips!).
If the tiles in a room were removed, we get a stepped offset of around 13 mm (tile + adhesive). Depending on which parquet construction you choose later, the thickness to be planned for this (parquet + adhesive) can be assumed to be around 18 mm to 25 mm.
This means that later, towards the kitchen, we would get a height offset between 5 mm and 12 mm.
5 mm is practically unproblematic; at 12 mm and above, the risk of tripping is pre-programmed.
Solution in the latter case:
The cement screed is ground down ramp-like by approx. 7 mm from the living room towards the kitchen, over a length of about 0.6 m and the door width + 20 cm.
At first glance, this approach seems questionable because of the load-bearing capacity of the cement screed, but it is not. There are reasons for this that I will refrain from explaining here. The load-bearing capacity is always guaranteed despite the reduction in thickness!
Due to the "ramping," we obtain only a justifiable height offset of a few millimeters towards the kitchen, which can be covered by any transition strip.
The solution with the aluminum strip is something for hobbyists without background knowledge; we others should leave this path :-)
---------------------------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa