Well for garden irrigation

  • Erstellt am 2021-02-25 23:21:32

rick2018

2021-03-15 21:19:40
  • #1
I need to look at this in detail, but circuits with 6000 l/h or 3000 l/h can be forgotten right away. Even if the well supplies that, the pump can't handle it. Plus the pipe losses... It will probably be no more than 2000 liters. The sprinklers should have the same precipitation rates. Slow wetting is better. With the lower flow rate, you also have the option to create larger circuits. The absolute amount of water is controlled by the run time.

Use the rotators. Less susceptible to wind, more even distribution, (almost) all heads have the same precipitation rate, etc.

Use the PRO-Spray PROS-04-PRS40 housings. You can use them anywhere. You don't have to worry about the layout. The housing always regulates the pressure down to 2.8 bar. Then just the appropriate head.

Demanding lawns require up to 15-20 l/week/m2.
 

rick2018

2021-03-16 05:40:48
  • #2
I have taken a look at it now.
Basically very good. What about the left boundary? Can you water over there or not?
I would use Hunter MP3500 for the upper area. For the 270° sprinkler, an MP3000.
So you would have
3 x MP3500 (at 90°) = 3 x 0.29 m3/h = 0.87 m3/h
2 x MP3500 (at 180°) = 2 x 0.65 m3/h = 1.3 m3/h
1 x MP3000 (at 270°) = 0.63 m3/h

From this I would create two circuits. One for the sprinklers at the property boundary and one along the terrace.
The narrow tip is a bit more difficult. You would need measurements here.
I would work with a combination of rectangular nozzles and corner nozzles. In any case, the water consumption is not large enough to justify a third circuit. As you can see, the MP rotators save you almost 3000 l/h. With so few circuits, a longer irrigation time also doesn’t matter.
They are also significantly quieter.

Especially with your soil, slow infiltration is important.
Large gear-driven sprinklers make sense for large open areas (with suitable pump and water supply), but not for installations like those in most single-family homes.

Regarding your drip irrigation, grouping only makes sense if the water demand and sun exposure are similar.
Pressure-compensated drip hoses (e.g., Hunter XFS) can be used up to a maximum of 100 meters. But these are values rarely reached in reality. With your pump, you don’t need a pressure reducer for the drip irrigation.
Don’t skimp on the valves.
I would also install an underground box for a garden hose. You can branch this off before the valve box. So no extra valve is necessary.

How do you want to control it? If you want standalone, Hydrawise is not bad. It doesn’t require its own weather station. I have already installed it in 3 recent installations. Very easy with the app.
Opensprinkler offers even more possibilities (which won’t really apply in your installation anyway).
Or just on the house control system...
 

FF2677

2021-03-16 09:13:35
  • #3
Hello , I already want to say MANY, MANY THANKS!!! I hadn’t realized that the rotators have such a low volumetric flow consumption. That would of course work to my advantage. In the next few days I will implement your suggestion with the mentioned rotators as a plan and present it here. After that, I would still have many questions :) regarding valves, control, etc...
 

FF2677

2021-03-16 13:47:47
  • #4
I did the planning with Hunter MP rotators today at noon.
- What is positive at first glance (significantly lower flow rates compared to sprinklers and presumably even distribution since there is the same pressure everywhere - 2.8 bar)
- negative: fixed throw distance (4.1 - 5.7 - 9.1 - 10.7 meters, depending on whether it is MP1000 - MP2000 - MP3000 - MP3500), planning with sprinklers and the many nozzles is more flexible.

I made the corresponding circles in the same color
- red circle (4x MP3500; 2 of them 90° segments, 2 of them 180° segments)
=> (31.34 l/min = 1880 l/h)
- blue circle (2x MP3500, both as 180° segments, 2x MP2000 both as 180° segments)
=> (27.5 l/min = 1650 l/h)
- orange circle (1 MP2000 as 180°; 3x MP1000 2 of them as 180°, 1 as 45°)
=> (6.9 l/min = 400 l/h)

However, I still have a few areas where I have no overlap of rotators (marked with red 1, where only 1 rotator waters this area). Is that critical, based on experience?
PS: As far as I understand, I cannot have different gear-driven sprinklers in the same circle due to the risk of different pressure drops. But different rotators should be okay, right? Since they limit the different pressures to 2.8 anyway.
 

rick2018

2021-03-16 14:25:19
  • #5
You can adjust the rotators by 25%;) In special cases, a different housing helps. You can mix rotators in different colors.
 

FF2677

2021-04-05 14:17:47
  • #6
Interim report:
In the meantime, the well driller has been here and hammered the pipe (1 1/4 inch) into the soakaway shaft. At between 5.5 - 6 meters from the ground surface, there was a very nasty layer of gravel. Water came at 6.5 m. We hammered the pipe in up to 8.3 m. Only the last 60 cm of the pipe has holes for suction. Thus, the pipe stands 1.8 m in the water, with a 1.2 meter reserve in case the groundwater recedes in the high summer.
The cost was €600 including the pipe. Working time approx. 4-5 hours.
He then connected a membrane pump for clearing, which delivered about 4,000 - 4,500 l/h.
So the well already provides enough water. But there is still a lot of sand coming out. For the time being, I have bought a cheap Aldi pump. Although a pre-filter is already installed, I assume that the pump will be broken after a short time. When the well is finally cleared by then, a proper pump will be installed.

Now it’s time to find the remaining components. The following have caught my eye:
1. From the pump to the distribution pipe PE HD 20 mm about 1 meter
2. Distribution pipe from Rainbird
3. Solenoid valves from Hunter (between 4-6 pcs)
4. From solenoid valves to the rotators PE HD 20 mm xx meters
5. MP rotators Hunter
6. Drip hose??? I haven’t read up on this yet
7. Control, Hunter solenoid valves require 24V AC. What is the recommendation here for 6 zones? Buy a ready-made one or tinker with raspberry and openhab myself?

Regarding PE HD pipes, I’m still not sure if 20 mm is sufficient. I will determine the pipe lengths soon and then simulate pressure losses for my pipe lengths. I want at least 2.8 bar to stand at each rotator to achieve even irrigation.
 
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