Terracing with L-stones, overlapping of the steps

How was the filling compacted?

Was the topsoil removed beforehand?

Go ahead and draw the desired L stones in your site plan.

I would place the lower row at least 1.5 m, preferably 2 m, in front of the upper row.

Your structure will not be frost-proof like this. The embedding is generally supposed to be 0.8 m below [GOK]. Can this be optimized?

You will probably have to expect settlements.

For such a construction measure, I would consult a structural engineer who is familiar with the location and knows all the information (e.g. soil report).

A professional also checks whether the development plan, state building code, neighborhood law, municipal statutes, etc. are complied with.

So many questions, , which I cannot answer in detail.

In the state building code of MV, I cannot find any information on the permissible height of retaining walls. The only mention of retaining walls is that they are allowed within the setback areas up to a height of 2 m.

In the meantime, however, we are a bit wiser. We have determined the height level of our garden area, i.e., the height difference to the house (the base edge in our case is the same as the top edge of the finished floor). It is 1.65 m to overcome from the top edge of the terrace at 45.50 m NHN.

In addition, I have looked at the technical data of the wall panels from KANN. The terraced installation is also described there: the angle to each other must not exceed 30°.



If we take 1.30 m high wall panels for the inner row and 0.80 m high wall panels for the outer row, it looks like we can consider going deeper.



Somewhat annoying, with the smaller height of 1.05 m wall panel for the inner wall, we just barely don’t make it. That would of course be much simpler.

If you set the lower one at a distance of 2 m, the upper one can be smaller. With a static proof, it will probably be somewhat more effective.

Why don’t you use the 30-degree inclination as in the standard drawing?

Here is a first sketch/top view of the planning.
It should look something like this, small changes, such as the path width on the left side of the house, are not excluded.

The lower planting strip should be accessible from the garden. More than 1 m depth is simply no longer practical. And we have to stick to 50 cm increments, since we need to connect with corner stones and L-stones to the upper wall.

The inclined plane on the left side is planned to also allow access to the garden from the street with a wheelbarrow, etc. Our neighbors on the left side have implemented it this way; we are continuing it so we don’t have to detour around them. Exactly how this slope will run and how it will be secured, and how far it will extend into the garden... still requires more precise planning.

The terrace is 15 cm higher than the ground level, so coming from the paths you step up one step onto the terrace.

The steps down are to be realized with block steps. At the height of the second planting strip, we are planning a landing to break it up a bit. And we save on corner stones and L-stones on the short side there.

On the right side, the L-stone row continues up to the neighbor’s boundary. The property has not yet been sold, so we do not know what the final heights will look like there. Which naturally makes planning difficult. Therefore, the plan is to initially lead the row up to the boundary, but not around the corner.

With two rows of stone walls each 1.05 m high, I can’t achieve the 30° angle without increasing the distance between the walls to over 1 m, and I don’t want that, so I can nicely tend the lower row from the garden and snack on the berry bushes in a leisurely way. That’s the naive plan so far.

I have optimized it a bit.



The garden and terrace should have a 1-2% slope away from the house. This way, you will need L-shaped stones that are a few centimeters smaller. Probably stones about 1 m high at the top and 0.8 m high stones at the bottom. Draw it out carefully again.

The backfill should be installed in layers and well compacted.

I would slope down towards the right neighbor’s boundary.

Thank you, I had not considered the slope so far.

However, my drawing of the cross-section still contains an error: the 1 m distance between the rows is measured from outside to outside, otherwise we cannot manage the lateral connection of the rows. This again increases the angle. But I will redraw it, I am still in the learning curve.