Sealing the terrace door. Which trade does this?

  • Erstellt am 2018-09-08 09:17:07

Disturber

2018-09-10 12:21:30
  • #1
Hello,

I also have a question about the topic. Has the area under the door been insulated with XPS, should it be, or is it recommended to avoid thermal bridges?

If one now uses sealing slurry for the waterproofing, wouldn't a small fillet need to be created at the bottom so that water does not accumulate?

Is such a coating then applied to the entire base or only at the floor-to-ceiling windows?
 

Snowy36

2018-09-11 09:54:53
  • #2
Yes, good question .... with us, the xps is only at the floor depths.

Actually, the roofer is doing the whole thing now.
 

dertill

2018-09-11 11:21:13
  • #3
What’s wrong with you? It’s professionally sealed with a torn garbage bag – plus duct tape, some sheet metal over it, and that lasts forever.

....


First, the sealing for floor-to-ceiling breakthroughs is done by pulling the sealing of the base/cellar (using mineral sealing slurry or hybrid sealing) into the breakthrough, all the way up to the window – UNDER all insulations, directly on the stone/concrete, especially also in the reveal. The same applies to the base sealing all around about 20-30 cm above the ground level. Although the base sealing above the ground level under the plaster is not mandatory when using appropriate plasters – it wouldn’t have hurt and only costs a few euros more.

After the sealing from below (with joint tapes and reinforcement) has been pulled up to the window, XPS insulation is applied to the masonry sealing. Always XPS or perimeter insulation that is approved for this, and on top of that, an EPDM membrane or similar, attached to the window frame/window sill connection rail, and above that the window sill/the exit.
 

Bookstar

2018-09-11 11:26:38
  • #4
That would be the perfect construction, which can no longer be implemented here. Unfortunately, I have also never seen this done this way before. In practice, it is of course also difficult to implement.

In this case, I would clean thoroughly and carefully seal with liquid plastic 2K. Then fill the gap with XPS and put a metal sheet on top. It should then cause no problems despite not being DIN compliant.
 

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