Rising damp on basement wall after prolonged rain

  • Erstellt am 2023-06-26 22:37:52

zachro08

2023-06-26 22:37:52
  • #1
Hello,

our inherited house was built in the mid-1980s and presumably does not have moisture barriers in the basement. After the recent rains a few weeks ago, there was quite a bit of moisture and efflorescence visible on the plaster.

The basement wall consists of concrete hollow blocks, above which, according to information, there is a cement plaster and above that a lime plaster as the final layer.

We were able to borrow a moisture meter from an acquaintance and found very high moisture (80-100) in the first and second plaster layers. Less moisture (device shows about 30-50) in the concrete hollow block.

In addition, “masonry efflorescence” — presumably some kind of salts — can be seen on the last lime plaster layer.

Is this rising moisture somehow concerning with regard to structural stability/building fabric, or is it “only” a matter of the plaster falling off and needing to be renewed?

Thank you in advance,

Rising moisture + efflorescence – about 20-40 cm high – here the most extreme spot after several days of continuous rain:

 

KarstenausNRW

2023-06-26 23:08:26
  • #2

Statics won’t be affected that quickly.
Building fabric is a bit of a vague term... And yes, with damage like this I would definitely say that it damages the building fabric. From the moisture, there will be more moisture (it moves upwards and in the worst case eventually ends up in your bedroom or living room) and it becomes increasingly difficult and especially expensive to get rid of.
In addition, efflorescence often turns into mold. Also with mineral plaster. And then you might as well renew everything down to the foundations.

So: monitor the damage. If it really only occurs exclusively during heavy rain and then COMPLETELY disappears afterwards, then you can (if you want) live with it. If it gets worse each time or the wall no longer dries out, you’ll have to call in a professional. Possibly dig out the exterior walls and waterproof them anew. If that’s the chance, then insulate (newly) at the same time.
 

zachro08

2023-06-26 23:42:29
  • #3


Hi Karsten,

thank you very much for the reply.
By "building fabric" I meant the hollow concrete blocks, so the load-bearing elements—so probably the statics. I am not an expert. :)

Above the 20-40 cm visible moisture everything was dry—the device showed 20-30. The plaster was completely hard as well.

Meanwhile, everything is dry again. We had the windows open and also used a fan and heater to be safe. It rained less a few times now. There was no sign of new moisture.

For now, I would knock off the loose plaster first. Then, to be safe, spray anti-mold spray and let it dry. Keep measuring the moisture regularly after rain, especially.

What kind of plaster could I use to replace the fallen areas?
 

KarstenausNRW

2023-06-26 23:51:50
  • #4

Please keep in mind that warm air outside contains more (absolute) moisture than cold cellar air. That is the difference between absolute and relative humidity. Ventilating a cold cellar with hot summer air leads to water condensation on the walls/floors.
Just a note, if the cellar is nicely cool.

I would then use a mineral cement plaster or renovation plaster again if you want to replace it.
 

HeimatBauer

2023-06-27 08:42:30
  • #5
I would always install a fan with a differential humidity controller and then first see whether the moisture really comes from outside or rather from inside. I was once in an old building where there was a large bucket in the heating cellar into which water was dripping, and it was not little. The source was initially alarming, namely the main water tap. Then it quickly became clear that it was simply condensation water condensing on the ice-cold water pipe – thanks to the huge and soaking wet cellar with actual streams.

As well as a differential humidity controller regulates, basically no human can do that. That’s why I find the statement "you just have to ventilate!" only 1/10 of the truth. Sensible fresh air flap, good fan with exhaust flap, and of course a properly set differential humidity control.

Sure, sometimes it simply comes from outside, then you have to dig up and seal it. Been there, done that.
 

Similar topics
05.06.2010Basement made of high perforated bricks or concrete?11
20.07.2015Moisture/Mold in the basement10
10.08.2015In which season of the year is it best to bring screed into the basement10
20.02.2016Basement made of watertight concrete - switch problem12
01.02.2017Basement originally partially concrete, now possibly completely brick-built28
27.07.2017Install controlled residential ventilation ducts without a basement?12
30.04.2018New construction - Is it advisable to lay basement tiles immediately? (Moisture)14
24.10.2018Damp walls in the basement of a new building - construction execution error?16
14.10.2019Dampness in the basement on the floor slab and walls25
19.05.2021Evaluation cellar / settlement house Bavaria53
19.03.2020Lime-gypsum plaster crumbly and therefore defective?21
06.05.2021New building with basement | WU concrete plus ring drainage21
18.05.2021Damp basement from inside or outside?15
22.08.2021House renovation, year of construction 68, mold and co76
19.04.2017Electroosmosis to renovate damp walls11
10.11.2021After screed, mold or mildew stains?22
18.10.2021Basement renovation in an old building: Do it yourself or hire someone?14
22.08.2022Mold on uninsulated flat roof equipment room15
29.01.2024Basement made of WU concrete or Poroton?17

Oben