Properly insulating old buildings, but how?

  • Erstellt am 2017-04-10 22:09:09

Deliverer

2017-04-18 14:58:42
  • #1
What speaks against thermostats? Possibly programmable ones...
 

Stefanseiner

2017-05-01 18:19:25
  • #2
Are there any recommendations somewhere regarding the thickness + WLG value of the interior insulation depending on wall thickness and the material used, perhaps some kind of table? So far, I have only found information on the websites of the relevant insulation material manufacturers stating that (logically) the insulation varies depending on the wall material & thickness. Currently, the issue is possibly: 55cm rubble stone masonry. For the planned timber frame walls, I would like to stay reasonably space-saving and use mineral wool insulation with WLS 032, but how thick?
 

Elina

2017-05-01 21:28:13
  • #3
our house is solidly built with masonry at the bottom and timber frame construction at the top. The walls downstairs are insulated from the inside; a composite panel with adhesive blobs was simply glued to the wall. So drywall (yuck) with 3 cm of styrofoam. It’s super easy to run cables inside, so all cables in our house are laid on the walls and underneath these composite panels. There is some air space between the panel and the wall because of the blobs. With this type of internal insulation, you definitely have to make sure that the insulation is not bypassed by air, so everything must be sealed airtight; for this, surface bonding is better suited than blobs. Because if air gets into the gap and cools down there, mold can develop. Otherwise, I find this kind of internal insulation very well suited to prevent mold, because there are no more cold corners. Our house was unoccupied and unheated for 1 year; the lower floor is still unheated now and has about 14-15° C in winter, and we ventilate very little, at most once a day, and there is no mold anywhere. So you can definitely do it this way if you pay attention to airtightness.
Tables are available at [U-Wert Rechner]!
 

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