Maximum power for kitchen appliances?

Good day!
This is not directly about house construction, but many electrical experts are reading here: What should be taken as the upper limit for an occasionally used device in the kitchen? A kettle typically has 2 KW, and I think that is already the maximum, because almost 9 A flow there. Normal household sockets are designed for a continuous load of 10 A, as far as I know. If I now connect a crepe maker with 3 KW, 13 A would already flow, and possibly for half an hour. That is already too much, right? So with a crepe maker, you should make sure to get one that manages with a power of 2 KW, right?
Matthias

1. Check maximum load of the socket
2. Check design of the supply line
3. Check protection of the socket as well as other devices on the protection
4. Decide

That is correct, but rather theoretical.

Yes, if you want to comply with the standard, the socket must withstand 16A for 1 hour.

However, this is quite impractical, because no (German) manufacturer will design their socket to pass the test for one hour and then burst into flames after another 5 minutes. And the standard testers don’t stop after one hour and say "Great". They do want to find out how long it really lasts.

Especially not, because the line to the socket is usually protected with 16A... and sometimes even 2.5².

That means the circuit breaker thinks everything is fine and continues to push 16A onto the socket, which at the other end has already set half the kitchen on fire.

But it is also impractical that a device runs at full power for hours. The crepe maker eventually gets hot and only needs to balance losses when batter is added and some heat is radiated away.

Since no one wants to bet on it, the electric car manufacturers naturally throttle continuous load to the 10A valid according to the standard. Because ultimately the manufacturer does not know which cheap socket from some hardware store in the customer's house was installed from the Far East.

You can also get products without CE, TÜV etc. from certain online dealers.

But since no one wants to bet their life on it, e-car manufacturers of course throttle to the standard-compliant 10A under continuous load. Because the manufacturer ultimately does not know which cheap DIY store socket from the Far East the customer has had installed in the house. You can also get goods without CE, TÜV etc. from certain online retailers.

I cannot confirm this with my car. The charging curve was exactly at 3.6 for several hours on a Schuko socket (the car existed before the wallbox, that's how I know ;-). Maybe other manufacturers do it differently? But I also wonder who wants to make crepes with 2000 watts continuous power, or rock-hard frisbees?

For me, it only works from the sockets inside. The fuse trips at the external location. Perhaps they are fused lower?