dertill
2018-10-22 22:50:14
- #1
I had to mention that you also want to do extensive remodeling otherwise. The project reads as coherent so far. For the old radiator niches, either use the same wall material as in the rest of the wall or aerated concrete. Do not install insulation boards or similar and fully connect with mortar/construction adhesive without air layers.
With a well-insulated roof, new windows, and closed niches, underfloor heating should also be possible. Probably not with 28-30°C in the flow, but below 40°C should be achievable. Depending on the wall construction, even less.
To brick up, you have to remove the screed in the radiator niches anyway; then you will see how thick it is and what is underneath. I guess about 4-6 cm screed and 2-4 cm mineral wool underneath. 8 cm screed is rather rare. The screed should not have been fiber-reinforced back then; instead, a mesh-like wire reinforcement was often cast in.
Technically, the removal is not difficult: a proper demolition hammer (6-9 kg) and off you go. If a wire reinforcement is inside, don’t break it all up into small pieces but detach larger slabs and cut the wire with tin snips / side cutters / pincers / angle grinder.
Always wear appropriate respiratory protection with the old mineral wool. Not just the cheap masks from the hardware store, but the expensive ones from specialized suppliers. You can find the exact designation on the internet under processing guidelines for old mineral wool.
Collect and dispose of mineral wool separately (not construction rubble, not mixed construction waste, but in sealable bags; some landfills only accept mineral wool big bags).
With two people, you can manage a good 100 m² per day.
Rebuilding with underfloor heating then according to the subfloor and available build-up height. There are many possibilities here, but the new-build version with insulation + underfloor heating + 5 cm covering will not be the best solution, as you need 15 cm build-up height for that; otherwise, you have too little insulation underneath.
Dry screed with a thin-layer system would be a fast and DIY-feasible solution. My favorite solution is the one from WEDI (also works with other cement-coated XPS boards). Check their site or search online for underfloor heating with WEDI boards. According to the manufacturer, this only works with tiles on top, but glued multilayer parquet should also not be a problem.
Oh, and you should then replace the oil heating system; it has passed its prime. When replacing it with an oil condensing boiler with about 35°C flue gas temperature, you should save a good 15% on oil.
With a well-insulated roof, new windows, and closed niches, underfloor heating should also be possible. Probably not with 28-30°C in the flow, but below 40°C should be achievable. Depending on the wall construction, even less.
To brick up, you have to remove the screed in the radiator niches anyway; then you will see how thick it is and what is underneath. I guess about 4-6 cm screed and 2-4 cm mineral wool underneath. 8 cm screed is rather rare. The screed should not have been fiber-reinforced back then; instead, a mesh-like wire reinforcement was often cast in.
Technically, the removal is not difficult: a proper demolition hammer (6-9 kg) and off you go. If a wire reinforcement is inside, don’t break it all up into small pieces but detach larger slabs and cut the wire with tin snips / side cutters / pincers / angle grinder.
Always wear appropriate respiratory protection with the old mineral wool. Not just the cheap masks from the hardware store, but the expensive ones from specialized suppliers. You can find the exact designation on the internet under processing guidelines for old mineral wool.
Collect and dispose of mineral wool separately (not construction rubble, not mixed construction waste, but in sealable bags; some landfills only accept mineral wool big bags).
With two people, you can manage a good 100 m² per day.
Rebuilding with underfloor heating then according to the subfloor and available build-up height. There are many possibilities here, but the new-build version with insulation + underfloor heating + 5 cm covering will not be the best solution, as you need 15 cm build-up height for that; otherwise, you have too little insulation underneath.
Dry screed with a thin-layer system would be a fast and DIY-feasible solution. My favorite solution is the one from WEDI (also works with other cement-coated XPS boards). Check their site or search online for underfloor heating with WEDI boards. According to the manufacturer, this only works with tiles on top, but glued multilayer parquet should also not be a problem.
Oh, and you should then replace the oil heating system; it has passed its prime. When replacing it with an oil condensing boiler with about 35°C flue gas temperature, you should save a good 15% on oil.