Heat pump generates audible structure-borne noise (with photos of the system)

Do not screw the outdoor unit to the wall, but place it on its own pedestal. Indoor unit on special insulation blocks. Do not run cables through the exterior wall and concrete them in. Use special rubber grommets and well foam for that.

I also do not like the cable routing. Radii are too tight and too little secured.

Do not screw the outdoor unit to the wall, but place it on its own base. Indoor unit on special insulation blocks. Do not run lines through the outer wall and embed them in concrete. For that, use special rubber gaskets and well foam.

I also don't like the line routing. Too tight radii and not secured enough.

What do you think should still be addressed now? The guy from Vaillant (was here two weeks ago because a cover wasn’t sitting quite flush) said that about half attach the parts to the wall and half place them on their own base.

Placing the indoor unit on insulation blocks should be quick.

Where should the line go if not through the wall? Through the floor slab at the bottom and then out of the ground on the outside again?

I would probably have to pay for the base myself. That was chosen that way.

But I could demand some of the measures: insulation blocks, bend the line downwards outside, rubber gasket in the breakthrough so there is no contact between concrete and pipe, and seal it.

Or rather invest directly in a base and accept additional costs again. I wonder how much that would cost o_O

You can pour the concrete base yourself, if the hardware stores ever open again. Costs three bags of concrete and a Saturday. Maybe one or two beers on the side. I don’t know if the length of pipes and cables will be enough, you have to figure that out.

You can cast the concrete base yourself, should the hardware stores ever open again. Costs three bags of concrete and a Saturday. Maybe a couple of beers on the side. As to whether the length of pipes and cables will be sufficient, I don't know, you'll have to find out.

I could only do the whole thing in spring anyway. But dismantling the system and placing it on the base has to be done by Vaillant, right? The drill holes for the current bracket can probably be filled again. In the end, the question remains about the opening for the pipe. What kind of sleeves are used there? They are properly placed into the wall and sealed again on both sides?

Hi,

my first suspicion would rather be the console of the outdoor unit. If something vibrates there, it goes directly into the load-bearing exterior wall. And then you really hear it throughout the entire house.

However, the routing of the cables is also not in order, it is not sealed at all? And hopefully that weird, floating cable in the picture is just a temperature sensor that you just placed there, right? That does not belong to the heating system?

But in general: You only moved in during summer, so call the heating engineer to come and fix it!

Best regards,

Andreas

By the way, the floating cable is the power supply for our winter house lighting. I just laid it over there. So Vaillant did nothing wrong this time :D

Where else should the pipe go if not through the wall? Down through the floor slab and then back out of the ground on the outside?

That is probably the usual procedure. I can’t imagine that your installation complies with any DIN standard (if one exists for this). But even basic common sense (structural inspection) shows improper execution regarding insulation and tightness in the pictures. Both are frequent problems.

Installing the indoor unit on insulation blocks should go quickly.

Sort of, since just lifting the "little machine" like that isn’t exactly easy either. But it should somehow be possible. Better if the (or another) plumber does it. There are special decoupling plates/bases for such things that can then be "slid underneath."

However, I could demand some of the measures: insulation blocks, bending the pipe downward on the outside, rubber sleeve in the breakthrough so there’s no contact between concrete and pipe, and sealing.

I would probably first point that out in a friendly conversation and wait to see what the plumber says.