Experience with hydraulic lime as interior wall paint lime paint

Hello,

we have had the house plastered on the inside with a lime interior plaster.

Now we only just understood that by using a dispersion paint we would "destroy" the diffusion openness of this interior plaster again.

I have now read a lot of good things about lime paint or hydraulic lime paint. Hydraulic lime can also be purchased relatively cheaply. However, the application seems to be more difficult, even though I do not yet know all the details.
Has anyone here already worked with lime paint?
Can it also be applied with a roller or do you always have to use those big brushes?
Do you have to wear a mask?

We would actually like to have it painted and wanted to hire someone fairly cheaply. But for such a lime paint, you should probably hire someone who has already done it, right?

Best regards

Hello Willwohnen,

unfortunately, I cannot contribute anything about lime paint. However, I would be interested to know if the lime plaster is really as "rough" as it is often said. We are still considering whether lime plaster or gypsum plaster would be more suitable for us. We want to paint all the walls and not wallpaper anything.

Hello, well, two people have already wondered about our relatively rough plaster. Personally, I don't find it rough at all, my parents have real rough plaster in their house, which is worlds away from this. Besides, we found out that a large part of the "little balls" still need to be removed before painting; they can even be easily brushed off with fingers. So there remain very small rounded bumps distributed around, maybe 1.5 mm thick, but overall the wall is still even (Q3). So you definitely can't tear your clothes or skin on the plaster. You could have bought a kind of top plaster to make the wall completely smooth, but we didn't want that. However, our plaster had to be applied twice to achieve the current quality. We have Schwenk lime plaster for allergy sufferers. However, it is gray! There is also Schwenk KIP natural white, but according to a phone inquiry I made, it is not so white that you wouldn't have to paint it. (That was also an idea for us at one point.) I think both the color and the roughness depend heavily on the exact product.
I searched in our photos; I don’t have such a close-up that shows the little balls. Still, attached is a photo where you can see from the cable and the socket (plastic parts) the distance at which you can no longer see it.

The light must also come from the side so that the structure is visible at all. Personally, I would like it very much like this, but the little balls still have to come off, otherwise, they stick to the paint rollers.
I wouldn’t want it completely smooth. On an absolutely smooth wall every scratch and such is even more noticeable.
Hope I could help you a bit.
Regards
WillWohnen

Hello, has really nobody used [Sumpfkalk] yet? That surprises me. We would actually like to use it, but simply can't find anyone who has experience with it. There are many vague statements like with [Sumpfkalk] it would be difficult to repaint or touch up later - with other paints, of course, but whether it's a problem if you touch up with white [Sumpfkalk], we are not sure. Apparently, a sinter layer can form that might need to be sanded off..? But isn't it the same with every paint that if you touch up a spot, you eventually have to repaint the whole wall because otherwise you can always see the touch-up spot? Does a wall paint have to be wipe-resistant, do you wipe your walls?? I have never wiped an interior wall with a damp cloth... I will post this again in this thread, maybe I'll find out something after all. Thanks + regards willWohnen

Hello,
maybe I can contribute something here. For many years I have been using hydraulic lime as an interior paint. It significantly improves the indoor climate. In my opinion, the application is unproblematic once you get used to the fact that 2-3 coats are required.
If the substrate is mineral, meaning it is applied directly on plaster or previous lime paint, then a lime coat cannot be replaced by any other paint, both in terms of the visual impression and the air quality in the room. However, I have mostly found dispersion paint as the substrate in various apartments up to now. Since I reject dispersion paint as a wall paint, I have still painted with lime paint. Of course, the effect on the indoor climate is not as pronounced as with mineral substrates. But the lime has adhered very well in almost all cases. You should always test this beforehand. It is sometimes claimed that if dispersion paint is applied again later, the lime would flake off. I have tested this and cannot confirm it. The lime adheres quite well to the dispersion paint. Even after years, nothing peels off. Of course, you do not get a diffusion-open wall this way, but at least you finally stop sealing the walls more and more with plastic and avoid any toxic substances in the indoor air.
The hydraulic lime I used was stored for 2 years. You should not go below that. The storage time is crucial. I have not used any additives. Lime behaves very differently when painting than thick dispersion paint. Rolling with a roller does not work. A high-quality brush is required. Everything must be very well covered. Safety goggles are mandatory. The whiteness only appears after a few hours. But it is all a matter of getting used to it. Another advantage: A 10-liter bucket costs 11 euros in our area and is then diluted 1 to 3. No other wall paint is that cheap. Just give it a try.

Hello,

we had pure lime plaster applied in our new single-family house and are currently considering which paint coats should be used on it.

, did you decide on hydraulic lime after all? And what was the result?

, is there a possibility to get your contact information?