Enthalpy heat exchanger central controlled residential ventilation

In general, however, an enthalpy heat exchanger does not magically create humidity, it just ventilates less or returns it to the supply air.

A family of 4 or 5 who wash, shower, bathe, cook a lot, etc., will have different values than a couple household with two full-time workers.

That may be true – nevertheless, I think that with this component I will at least slightly improve my humidity. So now I am waiting for your installation and hoping for something above 40% in the future :)

we are thus a family of four at 45°, as a rough figure. We had also retrofitted the enthalpy exchanger, previously it was below <30° without it.

we are about 45° as a 4-person family, as a rough estimate. We also retrofitted the enthalpy exchanger, previously were below 30° without it.

What other settings do you use on your ventilation system?

Basically stage 1/2, here I just look at what is needed.

And the bypass, which I activate for the summer (or with automatic summer detection). It is based on the outside temperature. In winter I set the temperature a bit higher (about 23°C) and in summer around 18°C and then the bypass is activated.

Otherwise, I haven’t found any other settings to consider or that should be changed depending on the season.

The system runs 365 days a year with us at level 2 with a capacity of 205m³/h. You can forget the bypass, it is completely irrelevant for winter as the exhaust air will never be warmer than the outside air. The comfort temperature is set to 20° by default. When the stuff is new, people like to fiddle with it :)

The system runs 365 days a year at our place on level 2 with a capacity of 205m³/h. You can forget about the bypass; it’s completely irrelevant in winter since the exhaust air will never be warmer than the outside air. The comfort temperature is set to 20° by default.

When the stuff is new, you like to tinker with it :)

The bypass is more meant for the summer, right? I don’t see any advantages in winter either, which is why I then raise the temperature – it won’t activate anyway in that case.

Yes, I always like to read up on these topics to see if something can be optimized :D
But the ventilation system is technically simpler than the heating – that’s partly really a science of its own...

But well – then I can safely put the ventilation topic aside for now and just let the system "do its work" :D

Yes, the bypass is for the summer. So that you can possibly bring some cool air into the house at night. I played around with the volume myself, it was initially set much higher. Also around 200m³. Now during the day I am at 150m³ and at night at 90m³ and the air is still sufficiently 'fresh'. Less volume saves electricity and leads to more humidity ;)