Basics of Electrical Planning
The standard designs in a construction service are never sufficient!
If you don't adapt them, you will regret it sooner or later.
Your electrical planning should be as generous as possible.
Subsequent changes are annoying, laborious, messy, and expensive.
Better spend a few euros less on the switch program (I know, glass frames look so great, no hardware store junk please) and invest rather in a few sockets, switches, lamp outlets, etc. etc.
Sockets:
You can never have enough!
I have a personal aversion to multiple sockets (sometimes it just can’t be avoided). They are not only a fire hazard, especially cheap goods, but also take up space behind the cupboard or are constantly lying in the way.
Personally, I say it’s not worth it to install just a single socket where one should go, always have at least two installed.
Time effort for the electrician, maybe 10 minutes more, material costs approximately 5€, electrician's hourly wage 40€(?), so about 6€ for installation. Thus, an additional socket from the standard program shouldn’t cost more than 15€.
Sockets should be planned at every window so you are prepared for decoration mania and possible window embellishments throughout the year.
Think about where your cupboards will be placed, also plan sockets for cupboard lighting there.
Under every switch group one socket (note, however, that the largest frame can contain a maximum of 5 elements).
Anywhere a TV is planned, at least 2, preferably 3 sockets should be installed. Reason: TVs are getting thinner, sound is getting worse, soundbars are increasingly used, so two sockets are already taken. The third is a reserve or for example for a media box (like Apple TV).
This socket group should be switchable on and off via a separate switch. (Electricity costs will continue to rise.)
Don’t be stingy with sockets when planning the kitchen either. Think about which devices you constantly have on the worktop (toaster, coffee machine, small electric grill, etc.). Those sockets are already planned. Additionally, 2 free sockets per worktop area.
Sockets on a kitchen island are also a blessing, or do you want to drag the cable for the mixer through the kitchen? (possibly with a multiple socket extension).
In the bedroom at the bed at least 2 sockets per side: 1x lamp, 1x charger for phone or whatever. Anyone who wants a TV in the bedroom should, as mentioned, plan the switch at the bed and at the door. From 4 switches onwards, a pulse relay must be added for the control. Before the electrician wants to install such an expensive pulse relay in the distribution (more cable effort = more work), point out that such a pulse relay can also be placed in the switch box.
In the bathroom, it must be ensured that sockets are not installed in wet zones.
The Media Center
Nowadays almost every household will have a media center somewhere, mostly in the living room. This includes, among others,
TV, AV receiver, game console, media box, Blu-ray player, subwoofer, charger for universal remote control.
That’s already 7 sockets, another three as a reserve can never hurt.
Remember 10 sockets = 1 fuse 16A.
Of course, all of these should be switchable on and off from a central point.
In addition to these sockets, there are speaker connection sockets for a 5.1 system (if you don't want to throw the cables across the room) and at least 2 network connections (the first 5 devices usually require one).
Speaker sockets, by the way, don’t have to be expensive from the switch program, just a frame and the base plate from the program are necessary, plus a few banana plug connectors from the electronics store (e.g. Conrad, Reichert, Pollin), and with some skill, you can save over 50% on the price.
Sockets outdoors on the house wall should be switchable from inside, and they must have a cover. Make sure the sockets are suitable for outdoor use (IP protection class).
Lamp outlets / light switches
Plan lamp outlets as you see fit.
Every non-connected lamp outlet should get its own switch.
For multiple switching points:
From 4 switching points, a pulse relay is required; this does not necessarily have to be installed in the connection cabinet, a cheaper version is a relay for the switch box.
In the hallway, the light should be switchable from every door; elegant solutions use motion detectors here (you come home with full hands).
Passing rooms should also be able to switch the light from every door (e.g., from the garage to the utility room).
To keep the switch panel from getting too large, serial switches can be used (2 switches in one frame).
I find lamp outlets at the bed quite nice, it saves me a socket.
Furthermore, the room lighting should also be switchable off from the bed.
Lighting in furniture. Carefully consider whether you really have to buy the offered lighting with the furniture purchase. This is usually completely overpriced.
Electronics stores (Conrad, Reichert, Pollin) offer the same lighting at much lower prices. With LED flex strips, very nice and cost-effective solutions can be created.
House lighting not only looks nice; it also scares off unwanted guests. Therefore, install a switch inside that lets you choose between permanent light or switching on via motion detector. So the light does not turn on everywhere when someone walks by, motion detectors can be installed on each house wall. However, this type of switching involves sometimes considerable additional effort.