Digital room thermostat for underfloor heating, which one?

For example

I think the easiest way is probably to install these things as faults and, if the plumber cooperates, integrate them in such a way that they are virtually non-functional.

Often the thermostats are on the same circuit and you only need to turn off the fuse in the panel.

Often the thermostats are together in one circuit and you only need to turn off the fuse in the box.

The only annoying thing is if you want to use a room flexibly after all. In our case, the guest room (or rather the office in recent weeks) is still equipped with an actuator and is mostly turned down significantly, so the actuator is without power anyway. I prefer it if my wife simply turns the ERR up when needed, rather than having something adjusted in the distribution box. You could certainly argue whether it's worth it. However, since the room is mainly adjacent to two exterior walls, the mostly low-heated bedroom, and the unheated utility room, the internal transmission is manageable.

Depending on NC or NO, they draw the specified current. Open

One really has to let the current consumption of the actuators sink in... Totally crazy, but I don't know if they would actually draw current continuously.

They do as long as power is supplied, they consume it.

Here is a basic actuator after it has been fully extended and accordingly reached the resting state. (Of course, the measuring device is not necessarily the most accurate, but the standby consumption roughly corresponds to the technical specifications of the manufacturer).

I have had good experiences with Eberle FIT floor thermostats so far: a clearly readable display to set the temperature correctly once.

The meaningfulness in a single-family house and the limited possibilities within a heavily insulated house to achieve different room temperatures in individual rooms have already been discussed here.