Cover the extension - connect roofs at the intersection point?

Is there only the one visible drain at the corner of the house’s gutter or another one at the other corner? Then interrupting the gutter would not be a problem and you wouldn’t have masses of water on the canopy.

Hello hampshire!

Thanks for your answer! There is indeed a downpipe on the other (left) side of the same eaves (of the house). However, it is only decorative. If the slope of the gutter were changed, it could be used "productively." The main question remains, though, how do you connect the two roofs? The 10 cm will not be enough to also fit the ridge tiles of the porch under the main roof at the crossing area.

Best regards, Fred.

Even though it is annoying, wouldn't it be best to remove the small roof truss, take off one/half a row of aerated concrete, and put the roof truss back on?

Hello Mottenhausen

Understandable answer! However, this is not so easy due to the ring beam that I installed under the purlins. I do not want to destroy it again.



Best regards, Fred.

That would actually top the design disaster by yet another dimension.

All in all, to put it mildly, a Pyrrhic victory just to avoid making the roof frame of the porch flatter or, as my predecessor recommends, lowering it.

Ring beam and windows, that now sounds more like the house than the porch, so there should have been more rather than less space between the two heights (?)

Just admit to yourself that you calculated the porch ridge height incorrectly, instead of inventing absurd contortions.

Hello 11ant!

Now I have a little time to analyze your responses.

1.)
So far you have not made a single suggestion to solve the problem. You have capitulated from the start and probably can only handle optimal standard conditions.

My initial question was how to connect the roofs! The questioner has certainly analyzed and ruled out the simple changes that would lead to the application of standard solutions.

In detail (in your words):
making it flatter: "not possible" because the total height is only 60 cm anyway.
lowering it: "not possible" because the ring beam would have to be destroyed.

2.)
I would always assume that the questioner does not confuse basic information, especially since it is still consistent. Is it really to be assumed that the questioner no longer knows that he has set a ring beam or created window and door openings including lintels??? And that it is consistent with the fact that the height difference has continually minimized!

3.)
I do not have to make contortions to determine the porch ridge height. I created the entire porch in Auto-CAD (Computer Aided Design) and accordingly made the squared timber.

Perhaps the expert is now running out of suggestions; the top places of creativity solutions require different answers.

Wow, heavy artillery!

is right though. Either remove the ring anchor and start over deeper or go significantly higher with the forest fat so that it can be properly integrated into the existing roof. As it is, it’s rubbish in every way. Alternative: standing seam roof or bitumen.

No suggestion to solve the problem has come from you so far.

Yes, it certainly did:

Dismantling and rebuilding with a shallower pitch is the most economical rescue in my view.

In the pictures I see a gable triangle with an estimated slope between 35 and 40 degrees, which could definitely be made flatter without disrupting water or snow runoff. The ring beam could remain, the gable triangle would need to be recut, the ridge beam of the extension lowered, and the rafters newly connected on it.

(My) suggestions do not always align with the questioner's preferences; after all, I’m no conductor at a request concert.

So respect for the effort that went into this. Normally, in such a case, the ring beam is executed simultaneously as a lintel – at lintel height. This is all way too oversized now for the small porch, isn’t it? Even screwed to the wall, that’s atom-proof, what you’ve built here. I also understand now that a dismantling is out of the question here.

I don’t see a reasonable merging of both roofs, since the peak of a dormer is usually an unsightly metal cladding problem, which doesn’t stand out much given the size of the dormer with a long valley. But in your case, only this critical area remains, I think it just can’t be made nicely.

One solution for connecting both roofs would be the variant shown in the picture below. But that will also be extremely complex to build and whether it will look good in the end... doubtful...