Compression tape between cladding and window with air gap

As a layman, I am slowly becoming a bit overwhelmed. However, I would spontaneously claim that points 1-3 are not okay.

1) As far as I know, a profile belongs there, but I have never seen it in that size (I know it with a 3cm build-up height). At first glance, it looks as if the FB measured himself wrong. Even if you install a window sill with a killer slope on the outside, what happens on the inside? Does he want to nail a board there?

2) No, this is no longer airtight. This is simply shoddy work!

3) As I suspected in my last post, the FB was either not willing (or had no idea). Normally, the screws would sit relatively centered in the profile and receive a cover cap. Here he could not screw in the center because that's where the air layer is, so he would have had to use some kind of anchor. In that case, he would not have perforated the fleece...

PS: Depending on the order volume, I would consider hiring an expert in your place.

Hey,
we also have a wooden house and it definitely looked different for us.
At the window with the gap underneath, is there only the adhesive?
Our windows all "stood" on the wooden frame, nothing was hanging in the air. I also doubt that this is correct.

For the roller shutter box, we also have "only" drywall over it, according to the window installer it's supposed to make it easier to access in the worst case.

I don't know if you are building through a general contractor or by individual contracts, but a serious conversation should be had about that :/

In addition to :
The 10(?) cm gap below the window can remain as is, it lets more light into the house, nicely diffused, so it doesn’t cause glare, and in winter you can see from the frost crystals on the inner windowsill when you need to put on your thick jacket.

Honestly: Anyone who installs something like this and claims it has to be that way should be whipped with their double-layer compressible sealing tapes and have the too-short window pulled over their head.
Someone else should then properly install a window 10 cm higher with the window sill connection profile flush with the bottom of the wall opening (or with a maximum 15 mm gap), for both interior and exterior sills, using the mentioned anchors without perforating the sealing.

Regarding the roller shutter box: It fits with the rest of the work that it is too thick or installed incorrectly (not visible here). What can be seen as an overhang is then a matter of design, as long as it is technically sound.

As a postscript: Are all the windows this short at the bottom, or just that one? If they are all too short, it should be checked whether the installed parapet height is possibly too low or if the window manufacturer delivered incorrectly. Even if you fix this by adding something under the window afterwards, the windowsill will sit higher than at the other windows on the house – unless they are all too short.

The outer glass seal was not properly done at the factory. The seal can still be fixed. Remove the glazing beads, take the glass out, press the seal straight, and put it back in. For small windows, this is 10 minutes of work for someone experienced. This is not critical; water penetrating from the outside in this area will be drained through the drainage slots. But it doesn’t look good.