Can drywall be glued directly onto concrete?

There are also gypsum fiber composite boards, e.g. Fermacell or Rigidur. There is a layer of Styrofoam on the gypsum fiber board. But I don't think they are cheap. However, they can also be glued. We glued 4cm of Styrodur to the concrete walls, which are then plastered. The electrical installation can also be accommodated there. However, we also have perimeter insulation in addition.

My experiences with gluing plasterboard sheets are good. Provided careful work, this results in a top-quality wall. Filling and sanding are of course an absolute must. The insulation effect is absolutely marginal. The advice to make the perimeter insulation stronger right away is absolutely correct. You can't really change that afterwards. And the additional material cost is ridiculous. The work has to be done anyway. Since it is still being planned: negotiate it right away.

Then maybe a more valid argument. Each adhesive point bridges the air layer. Since the adhesive points make up quite a large area, the already low insulation effect is further reduced. If the house is still in the planning phase, better have sufficient external insulation installed. If it has to be gypsum board, I would still make a substructure with profiles because it compensates for any unevenness. I think it will be very difficult to get the joints done properly without having to compensate with a lot of filler. If you want to get advice here, please also accept arguments and think it over again. We just want to help

That sounds plausible with the adhesive points. The question is whether there could be problems with condensation water and not how effective the insulation is. I have already clad a room with gypsum boards; it’s definitely warmer, but the room is on the ground floor and built with a poriterm stone. In the new house, I’m talking about the cast basement with Styrodur insulation from the outside.

Then search on Google for u-value calculator and enter your data on the relevant site. You should actually not have any condensation problems if the insulation is properly installed on the outside. If there are thermal bridges due to sloppy work, problems can certainly occur. Because you have the air layer behind the drywall panels, you might not necessarily notice the damage immediately.

I am not a civil engineer/building physicist, so the above is only my opinion based on my lay understanding. If I have a misconception, please let “real” experts correct it.

a thermos flask also works with a minimal air layer. [...] but you also didn't write any arguments, except this stupid comment.
if you really do business consulting and tell your clients without proper arguments

Why business consultants are believed even when they are blonde, I am unfortunately not allowed to reveal – otherwise I will be excluded from the guild
I have definitely written you proper arguments. From that, you could have recognized that the air layer in window glazing is by no means minimal, just like the one in the thermos flask: both are many times thicker than the membranes they enclose. Your "air layer" is ultra-thin, will of course also contain moisture (as insulated glass panes in windows used to in the past) and thus also condense. By the way, I did not like post #5 from just for fun: I fully share the view that the required level of skill is the same as for the plastering variant. Once glued, it is no longer the same drywall that even little Erna can master at first go.

There are also gypsum fiber composite boards, for example Fermacell or Rigidur. These have a layer of Styrofoam on the gypsum fiber board. However, I believe they are not cheap. But they can also be glued. We glued 4 cm Styrodur to the concrete walls, which are then plastered. Electrical installations can also be accommodated there. However, we also have perimeter insulation in addition.[/QUOTE

Why even blonde management consultants are believed, I unfortunately cannot reveal - otherwise I would be excluded from the guild
I have definitely given you proper arguments. From them you could have recognized that the air layer in the window glazing is by no means minimal, just like in a thermos flask: both are many times thicker than the membranes enclosing them. Your "air layer" is razor-thin and of course will also contain humidity (just like insulating panes in windows used to) and thus will also condense. Incidentally, I did not like post #5 from for fun: I completely share the view that the required skill level is the same as with the plaster variant. Once glued, it is no longer the same drywall that even little Erna can master immediately.

following problem:

The basement is big, I don’t have enough money to finish all the rooms.
At first, I want to complete a bedroom, a toilet, and a children’s room so I can move in and rent out my old apartment.
So I thought I would do the other rooms like additional children’s rooms, technical room, children’s room... later when I have the money.
If I move in and, for example, do the next room in two years, is it better to plaster again or use drywall then?
I have never plastered myself, but I can handle drywall.
What do you suggest?