Ytong extension on clinker house, built in 1971

Hello,

we are currently planning a kitchen extension.
Our house built in 1971 - wall construction - lime-sand - Hyperlite - clinker
Completely renovated in 2003. Energy 86.8 kWh according to energy certificate.

We want to remove a window element (2m) and make a breakthrough there leading to the new room.

Since parts of the existing clinker exterior wall will be interior walls after the extension, I don’t want to just butt the new walls made of Ytong against the clinker wall, but rather cut grooves in the existing clinker corresponding to the thickness of the Ytong stones and then mortar the new Ytong "into" the clinker.

This creates a thermal separation of the clinker wall.

See - Room 2



Good idea?? Or not understandable?? Or maybe other suggestions!

. Thanks

moin

I built something similar with a stairwell: in front of the open stairs that ran along the outside, I installed a closed vestibule with 2 doors, about the height of a house. Inside at the top, there was a round window. This way, you can now walk up the stairs indoors.

At the connections to the old walls, I created so-called sliding joints, simply placing vertical roofing felt between the new and old walls. The problem with extensions, in my opinion, is completely different settlement behavior. Although I founded the new walls frost-free on strip foundations and laid a concrete slab on a vibrated substructure, the entire extension settled by about 3 mm over the next 3 years. The old house had long since completed its "settlement phase," but a new building apparently completes its final settlement in the 1-3 following years. Thanks to the sliding joints, there were no problems, but if you bond old and new masonry, 3 mm can already lead to the breaking out of the masonry joint, in my opinion. I personally therefore advise against structural bonding!

To achieve optical harmony with the house, in my opinion, after the settlement is complete, you could brick the extension with aligned joints. I would also not put mortar into the vertical joints at the house wall here, but consistently form the sliding joint (let the roofing felt protrude at least the width of the bricks over the front between new Ytong and old wall sideways).

What does the building authority say about this? After all, it is a new habitable room, which probably is not exempt from approval in many federal states ... The building authority also informs about structural requirements for such projects.

Regards

Hi, the building authority says I have to make a building notification, which I am currently preparing. Drawings are also in progress. I just wanted to hear other opinions and suggestions, hence my question here. Is it possible to minimize the settling of an extension (more concrete - deeper foundation???)

Aha, sounds like a "shortened" or "simplified" application procedure,

so there probably haven't been any conditions so far?

The settling process is, as far as I know, something completely normal, you just have to take it into account when building an extension. In my opinion, it should be self-evident that the foundations are properly dimensioned and frost-free founded. As far as I know, settling cannot be completely avoided. I also compacted, etc., which is why it was only 3 mm. If I had been careless, it might have been worse.

What bothers you about the settling?

Regards

Whereas the procedure described in the EP would then preprogram the building damage,...

LG

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