Window replacement, initially without full thermal insulation in old buildings

Hello,
We have an old three-story building with a basement. So basement, ground floor, 1st floor, 2nd floor. The house was built in the 1950s. The entire house is built from solid stone masonry. The basement is relatively damp. Whether the stone walls are set on a foundation, I unfortunately cannot answer at this time. I have to start digging first.
An architect who looked at the house said that I first have to dry out the house before I can think about replacing the windows. (Drainage etc.)
That sounds logical to me. However, this year the budget unfortunately does not allow any more excavation work.
Since at the moment only the 1st floor is inhabited, my idea was to only install new windows on this floor. Even if the building draws moisture from the ground, it shouldn’t reach the first floor. Or am I wrong?
If I leave the old windows in the ground floor, the moisture should have enough "room" to escape, right? Since they aren’t 100% tight anyway.
Now to my second question. If I should replace the windows on the first floor, can I install the new windows flush with the outer wall?
At a later date, I want to install full thermal insulation. I have researched online regarding thermal bridges. According to the standard (Germany/Austria), the airtightness must decrease from inside to outside, and the joint between the window and the wall must be sealed on the inside so that no moisture from inside can accumulate between the window frame and the wall in cavities. (With sealing tape over the window foam)
To me this means that as long as the full thermal insulation is not installed, even if moisture were to accumulate inside due to poor sealing execution from the inside, it would still have the possibility to escape outside, since, as mentioned, there is no full thermal insulation yet that seals the house from the outside.

Thanks in advance for any answers!

David

Now, I am not an expert, my concerns would be the following: currently, the panes are the weakest link in the chain - moisture condenses on the glass, drips down, and can be wiped off. If you install new windows, you might end up with the masonry being the component with the highest thermal conductivity. The humidity may therefore possibly condense there in winter, leading to mold growth. Even with the front door open on the ground floor, the air will not necessarily circulate there if the door to the bedroom is closed.

I would probably advise against it - unless only in combination with a (decentralized) ventilation system.

In general, when doing DIY work with [WDVS], you have to make sure not to create thermal bridges. In our renovated old apartment, for example, we had mold in the upper corners of the rooms because the transition to the attic was not done properly there. Balconies, railings, etc. are also always popular problem areas.

Why do you want to change the windows at all?

But as I said, I am a layperson, better ask someone who really knows about it - they will surely advise you for a manageable hourly rate - much cheaper than ruining the building fabric.

Yes, thank you. Next week, the window installer I trust is coming to me anyway. Let's see what he thinks. In principle, I would have really liked the thick "Laibung." A friend of mine says that if I do it as described above, the windows absolutely have to be placed in the middle of the wall, because otherwise problems are inevitable. I am currently considering this because I definitely won't be taking the windows out again just to have a larger window sill/Laibung. Since it's quite a bit of work with such stone walls to get the cement plaster on, usually a two-day job, because you can't just smear it on in thick layers.

I'm sure the window installer will say "yeah no, windows don't make sense here, better do something else first"....
Well, not my house.

Nice. Digging up, sealing, and immediately replacing over twenty windows..., I'm not a big fan of loans.