In order to clarify the damage progression, the structural frame must be known. Is it a timber frame/timber panel construction? Or a solid construction? Large amounts of mixing water are brought into the house through plaster and screed, which must either be removed by sufficient ventilation or collected by dehumidifiers. The damp spots suggest massive condensation from uncontrolled convection of warm, moist air on cold components (thermal bridges). For example, through the roller shutter strap drive into the roller shutter box. Or through a variable moisture vapor barrier into the insulation between the rafters and from there as liquid water down to the foot purlin, where, for example, the ceiling could become dampened. Such areas must be opened if possible. Have you had a blower door test performed, during which leak detection was also possibly carried out?
You can also measure the relative humidity and, if necessary, set up dehumidifiers, whereby after 10 weeks the greatest moisture ingress should have long since passed. It is possible that moisture has condensed more heavily in certain areas from which it can no longer evaporate and is now seeking new capillary paths. Mineral insulation in the roof area (mineral wool or glass wool) can become very damp in this way but dries poorly after installation because it does not allow capillary moisture transport.
Basically, the construction moisture will eventually be completely dried out if the component structure and moisture supply from residential use allow it.