Wall cladding in the bathroom

  • Erstellt am 2017-06-30 08:29:35

roadrun87

2017-06-30 08:29:35
  • #1
After gutting our bathroom, the walls present a "horrible" picture. We are now considering which option is better or cheaper. The walls should be partially tiled and partially plastered. Either way, a smooth surface must be created.

Have the walls fully plastered or create a straight wall with panel materials. The picture might better show the initial situation.

The picture is a few days old. Meanwhile, the flush tank and the old drain pipes have also been removed. The plumbing company will start with the new pipes on Monday.

How would you proceed?
 

garfunkel

2017-06-30 20:33:50
  • #2
Basically had the same situation.
More or less solved the whole thing everywhere with drywall. Would I do it that way again?
hmm, anyway not with a wooden substructure, until you have created a level surface there...
Metal profiles are supposed to be better for that, if that's true I don't know. I've never worked with metal profiles.

Whether it's a problem if masonry is cavity drywall I also don't really know. It's probably done that way often and therefore probably not a problem.

Well, at the end of the day I would probably have it plastered next time (or plaster it myself). Seems more sensible to me because everything is connected frictionally.
Probably costs more because you can't really do it yourself but oh well...

Your roof insulation is overdue though
 

roadrun87

2017-06-30 21:05:08
  • #3
As mentioned, the photo is already 2 weeks old. Meanwhile, the insulation has been removed throughout the whole house and all water pipes have already been replaced. Tomorrow a plasterer will take a look at the whole thing. Let's wait and see how expensive it will be.
 

Kaspatoo

2017-06-30 23:53:11
  • #4
Building walls up to the roof slope is also not expensive and could even be done by oneself in non-critical areas, I think. Standard plasterboard panels can then be attached to the roof slopes (there are special ones for wet rooms). Of course, proper insulation + vapor barrier beforehand (a professional would be needed here; as I just learned in another thread, it is basically fatal if the vapor barrier layer is not 100% tight at the transitions). Then tiles / plaster everywhere. An 11.5 cm thick wall of sand-lime bricks or perforated bricks would be sufficient up to the roof slope.
 

Knallkörper

2017-07-01 11:31:18
  • #5
Why brick up again, what is that supposed to be good for.

I would have it plastered. That way you won't lose any space and it will also be even.
 

Kaspatoo

2017-07-02 10:32:32
  • #6

under the sloping roof I mean, to create a kind of knee wall
otherwise plaster and tile directly
 

Similar topics
19.11.2013Walls made of Styrodur or Styrofoam?10
27.03.2014What must be considered when removing or relocating walls?10
12.06.2014Walls of a new single-family house, ground floor runs crooked, defect correction construction defect19
02.10.2014Plastering the interior in a new building or applying painter's fleece directly?11
28.06.2015Tile walls before floors?11
04.01.2017Plaster walls in new construction or use fleece?16
26.01.2017Cracks in drywall after a few months15
02.04.2017Solid house or drywall construction?10
06.04.2018Floor plan change - Load-bearing walls in the apartment. What to do?14
07.07.2019Painter's fleece or plastering in new construction - experiences?27
29.07.2019Replaster/re-clad walls (with photos)12
09.05.2021Interior walls made of drywall or masonry?18
21.08.2021Walls painter fleece / ceiling lime paint?22
19.04.2017Electroosmosis to renovate damp walls11
10.09.2021Plaster Q2 walls with roll plaster or other recommendation?27
21.09.2022Walk-in shower, drywall or rather masonry, alternatively glass wall20

Oben