Removing approximately 90m² of floor and wall tiles - which rotary hammer to use

  • Erstellt am 2015-07-10 08:29:49

Janosh84

2015-07-10 08:29:49
  • #1
Hello,

my wife and I have bought a small house (built in 1980) which is being completely renovated. For professional reasons, we have to have some work done by various companies. However, we would carry out the demolition work ourselves. The house has about 90m² of floor tiles in total. The largest part of this is, of course, in the living/dining area. For this, I need a rotary hammer with a flat chisel. I looked at what the hardware stores near us rent out. For example, they offer a rotary hammer up to 30 mm (full), 90 mm core bit for €84.00 per week. Now I looked at what a new rotary hammer costs and chose the following: Makita HR 2470 SDS-Plus rotary hammer. This costs around €150. My idea is to buy a new one and, when I am finished with the renovation work, either sell it or keep it. Unfortunately, I don’t yet know how easily the tiles will come off, since we only get the key on 15.08 and the current owner lives far away. So I cannot say whether tile adhesive or mortar was used.

Do you think the Makita rotary hammer will be sufficient for my project, or would you recommend another? Maybe you have a good tip for me that I haven’t thought of yet.

Thank you very much for your help.

Jens
 

Umbau-Susi

2015-07-10 09:04:11
  • #2
Makita or Hilti. We gutted our house with a Hilti and were very impressed.
 

FrankH

2015-07-10 16:44:40
  • #3
I would choose a rotary hammer in the 5 joule class; the small devices are good for a tile backsplash in the kitchen, but especially on the floor I had some difficulties with my small machine (2.9J), even though it is a branded device (Metabo UHE2850). The Metabo eventually gave up with smoke signals, no idea if it was perhaps overloaded or had a manufacturing defect. I then quickly bought a cheap Worx WX333 at Hornbach to be able to continue. It worked much better then. I only had tile adhesive under the tiles and no mortar bed, which I imagine is even more difficult to remove. It may also depend a little on the quality of the bonding and the tiles, but the cheap machine paid off for me (just compare the purchase price to an hour of a craftsman’s work). Warranty/guarantee is available for the cheap machine as well; if the machine breaks down, it is simply exchanged. However, my Worx survived everything unharmed. I kept it, the Metabo was not even a year old, so I sent it in for repair and even got a new one under warranty. Normally, I would also recommend branded devices, but sometimes a mid-priced one is enough for rare use (there was an even cheaper one than the Worx).
 

Janosh84

2015-07-10 17:04:20
  • #4
Thank you very much for the tip. So the joule class is probably the decisive factor. I will pay attention to that when buying. Thanks
 

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