Outdoor area has screed - How to seal edge joints when there is no skirting?

Hello,

I have a massive room outside the house made of brick and concrete walls and a concrete ceiling. Size 6 x 4m. It has screed without any pipes underneath. The room is used like a garden shed.

Around the screed, as is common in house construction, a (blue) foam strip was laid, which serves as an expansion joint. In house construction, this is covered by the floor covering or baseboards. In my case, I simply want to apply a special concrete paint directly onto the screed. This is basically possible and not in question. I do not want tiles.

The problem is that the edge strip is not solid but made of plastic. I cannot just pour the paint over it.

I also do not want to apply a full-surface leveling compound to create an overall floor; the screed is already nicely even and smooth. Now I’m wondering if I could just pour some quick screed around the edges and smooth it with the normal screed. However, I am concerned that the substrate will not be strong enough and the edges will become brittle over time.

Does anyone perhaps have an opinion on this? Here are a few pictures showing the edge strip as well as a gap at the door.

Either you install a transition profile or cove profile all around. These are available in plastic, for example from Korte. Then you apply your screed coating right over it. Or you would have to seal all around, preferably with polyurethane, forming a cove joint in the process.

I assume you want the joint to be sealed as well – otherwise, any liquid will immediately run into the gap.

Now I wonder if I can just pour a bit of quick screed all around the edge and smooth it out with the normal screed.

That certainly won't work!

This is especially also a joint for decoupling. It must not be closed, otherwise you will have the impact sound from the room throughout the house.

Cut the foam flush with the floor. Seal the floor with garage paint. Conceal the edge joint with a baseboard. Simply glue the baseboard to the wall. PU joint compound would also work, but it’s not easy to get it clean. And PU compound is not cheap either.

At the building materials dealer, I was advised to simply put thick acrylic in there and paint over it. Is that bad advice? Of the ones mentioned here, the baseboard would still be the easiest for me, but it would also be somewhat inconvenient for flush mounting of (heavy-duty) shelves, etc.

Mh. Acrylic. How picky are you? Acrylic would shrink at that thickness and possibly crack. Elasticity would be sufficient at that spot. It would also be the cheapest. Give it a try. Karsten