Laying pipes in Poroton?

Hello Bettie,

that of course also depends on how thick the pipe should be and exactly which Poroton you are using?
Should it be a thick single-layer Poroton wall?
That should basically not be a problem, but T9 to T7 are indeed more porous than the uninsulated variants!
Regarding the dowels, there are of course special dowels for each wall, which should definitely be used.
Usually, such a dowel in Poroton goes through several layers, meaning
they naturally have a higher load-bearing capacity than a simple drywall panel, where it is already a bit daring to screw a heavy shelf to it! There are also many pieces of furniture where it is explicitly forbidden to attach them to so-called drywall walls.

Hello Bettie,

...For our house extension, Poroton was recommended to us. Is it possible to properly lay a pipe in it, or does everything crumble apart?

Hollow bricks Hollow bricks, trade name: Poroton, are made of clay, loam, sand, and porosity agents (e.g. sawdust). The bricks are first dried at temperatures below 100°C and then fired at about 1000°C. Poroton bricks can be either laid as block bricks with lightweight mortar or as flat bricks with thin-bed mortar. Since the thick-bed method with lightweight mortar has some disadvantages, only flat bricks should be used today. Wall construction usually from inside to outside: 1 cm interior plaster, 17.5 cm hollow brick, 10.0 cm ETICS (external thermal insulation composite system), as well as 1.5 cm synthetic resin plaster – if facing bricks are planned, the synthetic resin plaster is omitted and instead 4.0 cm air gap and then 11.5 cm facing bricks.

Given the structure of the hollow bricks, it goes without saying that a special anchor must be used for fastening. Anyone who – for example, during kitchen installation – has ever hit a web (internal structure of the hollow bricks) will confirm to you that it is perfectly suitable for working with rapid-setting cement. That's annoying but by no means does everything crumble apart.

Kind regards