Ikea Pax wardrobe with 3m width and 3 sliding doors possible?

hello everyone,
unfortunately I couldn’t find anything on the Ikea homepage regarding my concern, so I’m asking the experts here

I currently have a Pax wardrobe 2m wide (1x1m and 2x0.5m carcasses) and 2.36m high with two sliding doors each 1m wide. I would like to extend it by 1m and I’m wondering if I could simply add another 1m sliding door. So that basically the outer doors could slide under the door in the middle and the front door could slide either to the left or right. In principle that should be possible, does anyone have experience with this?

the planner doesn’t allow for this and I’d rather not go for the 1.50m wide doors, as they seem a bit too bulky to me... but if there are 1.50m wide doors, there should basically also be a track over 3m, right?

many thanks

Hello,
such an extension is not planned. You would have to cut the 2 m rail to the appropriate length. The side finish will not fit perfectly, as the left and right side panels differ. Depending on how old your PAX is, the rails might not fit together. There may be further difficulties for which you need to find a solution.

There is no 3 m long rail. The 1.50 m wide sliding doors consist of two 75 cm wide elements. You can only place two 150 cm wide wardrobes side by side.

Hello,

Yes, that works! However, there are a few restrictions:

[B]Drawers are only possible in the middle:[/B]
The sliding doors are about 1 cm wider than the cabinet carcass to avoid a gap when closed. Normally, this doesn’t matter because the left wall of the right carcass is also 1 cm wide, so the opened sliding door is not in the way.
However, if two doors run on one rail and are pushed together to open, they are 202 cm wide, but the interior of the third cabinet already begins at 201 cm. You can just barely open a drawer, but over time, you would definitely scratch the doors.
Therefore, we installed clothes rails on the right and left and a divider to split the cabinet at the bottom. This allows 50 cm drawers to be installed at the ends.

Regarding the sliding door dampers:
We built it so that the middle door is the front one; otherwise, it would be difficult to open. The middle door therefore cannot have a damper, but you can install one on the right/left door. The problem here is that you need the component twice with which the rear door snaps into the damper. However, the kit only contains one part for the rear and one for the front. I am currently trying to get the missing part via the Ikea spare parts service. Logically, the middle door has no snap-in point, although I have considered whether this could be solved with a recess or bump on the rail.

Regarding the rails:
The upper rail turned out to be less problematic for us. We simply extended it with a 1-meter piece and made the joint between the cabinets there. To make them fit well together, the extension piece was cut on the outside so that the connection is as clean as possible. For this reason, you need to drill two new holes at the ends.
The lower rail doesn’t work that way because it has notches and does not sit on top of the cabinet like the upper one. We therefore made the 3 m from approximately 1.75 m + 1.25 m and cut off a piece from both rails. This way, the rail can be better fixed because both ends can be screwed next to each other to the bottom panel. You need to work carefully here and deburr/round off everything as much as possible, otherwise the slider will catch at the transition between the rails.
Furthermore, it’s important to protect the rail at the seam from twisting at the bottom. With 1 mm of twisting, the door would already catch. We screwed a piece of wood from above between the baseboard and the rail to prevent this. In our setup, the baseboard is offset by one hole further back and not flush with the side walls.

We bought the first cabinet around April 2018 and the second in April 2021. There were no changes in between. We are very satisfied with the result.

Have fun building it yourself!
-Daniel

Hello,

Yes, that works! However, there are a few limitations:

[B]Drawers are only possible in the middle:[/B]
The sliding doors are about 1 cm wider than the cabinet body so that no gap appears when closed. Normally this doesn’t matter because the left wall of the right cabinet is also about 1 cm wide, so the opened sliding door is not in the way.
However, if two doors run in one track and are pushed together to open, they are 202 cm wide, but the interior of the third cabinet already starts at 201 cm. You can just barely open a drawer, but in the long run, the doors would definitely get damaged.
That is why we installed clothes rails on the right and left and made an insert to halve the cabinet at the bottom. This allows 50 cm drawers to be installed at the ends.

Regarding the sliding door dampers:
We built it so that the middle door is in front; otherwise, it would be difficult to open. Therefore, the middle door cannot have a damper, but you can install one on the right/left door. The problem is that you need the part by which the rear door snaps into the damper twice. However, the kit contains only one part for the rear and one for the front. I am currently trying to get the missing part through the Ikea spare parts service. Logically, the middle door has no snap-in point, although I have considered whether this could be achieved by adding a recess or bump on the rail.

Regarding the tracks:
The upper track proved to be less problematic. We simply extended it with a 1-meter piece and made the joint between the cabinets. To make this fit well, the extension piece was cut on the outside so the connection is as neat as possible. For this reason, you have to drill two new holes at the ends.
The lower track is trickier because it has recesses and does not sit on the cabinet like the upper one. We therefore built the 3 m from about 1.75 m + 1.25 m and cut both tracks a bit. This way, the track can be fixed better because both ends can be screwed to the base plate side by side. You have to work precisely and deburr / round everything as much as possible; otherwise, the slider will catch at the transition between the tracks.
Furthermore, it is important to protect the track at the seam against twisting at the bottom. A 1 mm twist would already cause the door to catch. To prevent this, we screwed a piece of wood from above between the baseboard and track. However, in our case, the baseboard is also stuck a hole further back and not flush with the side walls.

We bought the first cabinet around April 2018, the second in April 2021. There were no changes in between. We are very satisfied with the result.

Have fun building it yourself!
-Daniel

Where do you always dig up these ancient threads? Seven years! SEVEN!

Where do you always dig up these ancient threads? Seven years! SEVEN!

This was the top result on Google :) - Besides, the topic of Pax is a perennial favorite.