Ikea Metod kitchen installation - assembly tips?

Hello everyone,

the time has come: Ikea has moved in with us in the form of a new METOD kitchen.
The assembly of the cabinets went quite smoothly so far, but now it’s getting serious:

- the Utdrag extractor hood, which was supposed to be installed in a 60x60 cabinet for recirculation operation, neither has the floor mounting brackets shown in the manual (from the Ikea site) nor a pipe included - is that normal?
As it looks, the extension pipe is also needed for recirculation? Or is it possible without?

- From how many KG is a reinforced Utrusta bottom required? I had myself advised when putting it together (being an absolute Ikea beginner) but when it came to assembly I noticed that only one bottom was planned, although I need to place a fridge (42kg) and a stove (34kg).

- Is there anything to consider with a non-Ikea sink? (This one should go into a 60x60 2-drawer cabinet - one medium and one short drawer)

- The Smaklig cooktop is supposed to go over the Raffinerad - Is a worktop less than 3.8cm really problematic?

- Does the lower row of cabinets have to be screwed to the wall? The tiled area goes relatively deep with us, so quite a few tiles would have to be drilled for the Ikea strip - difficult in a rental apartment.

- Can the cabinet feet be turned to max ~10cm? The panels then seem to be too low - is there a simple solution?

I hope some of you old Ikea hands have a few tips on one or the other question,

Thank you!

Hello,

the mounting brackets should be included with Utdrag, the pipe must be purchased separately (that is how I interpret the shopping cart symbol in the instructions) and is also needed for recirculation (see instructions).

The ventilated reinforced UTRUSTA bottom is only required from 70 kg device weight.

For non-Ikea sinks with a drawer underneath, you have to check how deep the siphon for this sink goes. The Atlant siphon for Ikea basins can be mounted on the back wall of the sink cabinet – but that does not work with all siphons. Possibly the top drawer collides with the siphon.

Regarding Smaklig: I understand the instructions to mean that the 38 mm are necessary to ensure sufficient ventilation when installed above an oven. In case of doubt, ask at the furniture store; you have to get the brackets for Utdrag anyway...

Regards,
IKEA friend

H
- Does the lower cabinet row need to be screwed to the wall? Our tiled area goes quite deep, so quite a few tiles would have to be drilled through for the Ikea strip - difficult in a rental apartment.

- Can the cabinet feet be turned to max ~10cm? The panels then seem too low - is there an uncomplicated remedy?

I hope some old Ikea veterans among you have a few tips for one question or another,

Thank you very much!

Regarding 1):

Our consultant completely removed the hanging rail for the base cabinets from the order list. The cabinets are all screwed to the countertop, which is at least heavy enough so that nothing moves anymore.
It might be easier for some to align the cabinets afterward, but given your starting situation, I would also forego drilling holes in the rental apartment.

Regarding 2)

10.5 cm ... theoretically. In practice, the parts are very wobbly as soon as they are turned higher than 8 cm. Here too, our consultant was clever and sent me to the hardware store.


They are available at Bauhaus, costing only a fraction, so the solution is only slightly more expensive than the wobbly feet from IKEA.
However, with these, only >11cm plinth height is possible, so you would have to look elsewhere for plinths or cut them yourself.

I wouldn't use fixed furniture legs because there is no way to compensate for unevenness.

We have the opposite problem, the base may be max 5 cm (because of the window ...), I already ordered feet here.

They will only be installed next week, but they seem sturdy: Special feature: The feet have a slot for a screwdriver. You have to drill a hole in the cabinet bottom (10 mm hole, can then be covered with caps) and can then turn the feet up or down from inside the cabinet with a screwdriver, so you can easily reach the back feet as well. I find that very practical.

Best regards, Wolfgang

The reinforced bottom is not only reinforced but also cut out at the back for ventilation and is somewhat variable in height. Therefore, it is usually preferable as a bottom for electrical appliances. Look at the assembly instructions of IKEA devices, even if they are corresponding devices from other manufacturers. When using foreign feet, you should ensure that the side panels are also supported by the feet. Bottoms have already broken out when this was not considered. If several cabinets stand next to each other, are screwed together, and have the countertop on top, usually nothing happens if the base cabinets are not attached to the wall. However, if all the cabinets have drawers and you can imagine a situation where someone opens one drawer after another without closing any, it can happen that the row tips forward.

Thank you very much for the numerous responses!

The thing with the UTDRAG is a bit annoying, they could have pointed that out in the store. I'll probably stop by again – although right now I don't really see what else I need. Maybe I'll be missing some filter afterwards...

The base cabinets will all be screwed together. But since they all have pull-out drawers, I think I'll attach a few brackets under the tile backsplash.

The tip about the wobbly feet was a good one – I'll look around at the hardware store. Possibly I'll stick with the 8cm if I don't quickly find a suitable plinth. I thought maybe Ikea has something in the matching color...

Regarding the sink – I looked around, space-saving siphon is the magic word. Hopefully I find something suitable.

And for the stove, I'm inclined to get another Utrusta base... better safe than sorry.

Thanks and regards