Getting rid of moisture from the shell construction - how to ventilate and other topics

would still additionally work with a dehumidifier.
Is the hatch to the top floor ceiling/attic closed?

As already mentioned, it is best to keep all windows open during upcoming freezing temperatures (avoid tilting the windows, as this promotes mold growth because although fresh air comes in, the moist air from inside cannot escape). At subzero temperatures, water in the stone and ground is drawn outward, freezes on the surface, and then evaporates again at appropriate temperatures. That is why a shell construction should be allowed to dry out in winter and not in summer. Dehumidifiers will dry the air nicely but will not help against the moisture in the ground and masonry.

Dehumidifiers will dry out the air nicely but they won't help you against moisture in the floor and masonry.

Of course they help, just like ventilation. The floor and walls always release moisture into the room air. Where else would it go? The room air can only absorb moisture if the relative humidity is nicely low, otherwise the air is saturated. That is of course achieved with construction dryers. In winter, shock ventilation works only because cold air from outside warms up inside the house. Warm air can absorb more moisture, which means that simply by warming the outside air its relative humidity decreases so much that the originally moist outside air can absorb even more water. Without heating and with open windows, nothing happens at all. The same applies to permanently tilted windows: the air then does not get warm enough and cannot absorb any more water. (In addition to heating and dehumidifiers, fans also help to improve air circulation.)

Of course that helps, just like airing out.
The floor and wall always release moisture into the room air. Where else? The room air can only absorb moisture if the relative humidity is nice and low, otherwise the air is saturated. You obviously achieve that with construction dryers.

That's true, but it only helps if there is moisture in the air or on surfaces.
This moisture then evaporates.

But if you want to thoroughly dry the masonry and screed, then you can forget it.

The long standing time of a shell construction without windows and doors over the winter has proven itself for many decades for a reason.
Otherwise, they would have said, let's just put in a wood stove and continue in four weeks.

You can see it with all the Town & Country houses, after five years they all have mold.

And what would be so bad if the OP installs his windows next year? Not much happens over the winter anyway.

It's the same with the missing roof overhang that has come into fashion over the past few years. It looks ridiculous and the plastered wall is not protected at all. You can see it when green spots appear on the exterior wall after a few years.

Hi,
if I understand the original poster correctly, the screed and interior plaster are not installed yet. In other words, the actual amounts of moisture are still to come. The moisture in the wall bricks is minor. With screed and interior plaster, several cubic meters of water will enter the building. Then it gets interesting.

Until then, I would ventilate and possibly set up a construction dryer. However, these devices consume about 0.5 to 1 kW per hour, so they are not cheap either. And someone has to empty the containers.

But as mentioned, it only makes very limited sense to put a huge effort into this now.

Best regards,

Andreas