Getting rid of moisture from the shell construction - how to ventilate and other topics

Hello and hello everyone,

the shell construction was recently completed at our place. Since a larger order at our regional window manufacturer was apparently postponed, we received our windows just 3 1/2 weeks after measurement - so shortly after the completion of the roof truss. In my opinion almost too early - however, I was not given much choice as otherwise nothing would have happened this year. Now the house, of course, still has a lot of residual moisture. The floors (especially the basement) are now dry (at least they look that way). However, many bricks (especially in the basement) are still dark colored and still wet. There I am also measuring a moisture level in the room of currently still 84%.

About the house: The basement itself is a WU basement. Interior walls and ground floor, upper floor completely were built with Poroton.

Now to my actual questions:
- How should I ventilate best? Currently I have all the windows tilted in the basement. In the ground floor and upper floor each, some windows (opposite each other) so that I achieve a cross-breeze. Is that enough?
- Furthermore: I still have to insulate the top floor ceiling (EPS035) (insulation came today) - and a sealing membrane has to be laid in the basement. When is the best time to do this or how long should I wait for something like this? Of course, I don’t want to “trap” the moisture underneath and provoke mold in the end.

I would be interested in your opinion here and, if applicable, how you handled this in your build.

Best regards,
XxTankerxX

You need large dehumidifiers and blowers .. with ventilation alone, opening windows, closing windows takes forever.

Also: even where you no longer see moisture, the walls are probably still too wet.

Does anyone really already have dehumidifiers running now?

Next week often predicts night frost (down to -5 degrees) - shouldn't that accelerate the drying out?

Heating and very regular shock ventilation works the same in winter. Without heating, you will not get rid of the moisture.

You use a dehumidifier in the muggy midsummer or when you do not have the time to shock ventilate three to five times a day. In winter, then dehumidifier in combination with heating.

Heating and very regular shock ventilation works just the same in winter. Without heating, you won’t get rid of the moisture.

You use a dehumidifier in the muggy high summer or if you don’t have time to ventilate by shock ventilation three to five times a day. In winter, then dehumidifier in combination with heating.

Without heating currently difficult. We do want to put a small wood stove in for working. But it will probably only run on weekends when we work on site. Shock ventilation three to five times a day is really not possible – I don’t work at my future place of residence. So 1 - 2 weeks with a construction dryer after all? How much do they consume? 1 kW?

An electric fan heater plus one or two tilted windows is the energetically inefficient option. The fan heater plus the air dryers is the more efficient one. Which is cheaper including electricity costs, the local rental service can tell you.

Possibly the waste heat from the dryers is already enough and you don’t need any additional heating.