Finishing staircase - parquet

  • Erstellt am 2017-02-18 19:06:53

Christa_74

2017-02-18 23:05:33
  • #1

Thank you for your explanations!
The rail is a completely normal transition rail – we also have them between rooms, e.g. to separate tiles and parquet, which certainly are not meant to be laid somewhere in a U-shape.

This is how it looked before without the rail. Perhaps the gap between the stairs and the floor should have been smaller overall?
 

11ant

2017-02-19 02:51:41
  • #2


No, this is (here) a completely perverse tripping hazard. In case of success, it could be negligent homicide, as you sometimes go down stairs...



It should be used for that and only that, and then it would be a completely normal transition rail.



It was right like that, just not quite finished - but that is described in #12 how.

So: remove the rail, put cork or silicone in. And: leave the parquet on the floor floating. Even if it wants neither wages nor vacation: wood works!
 

Christa_74

2017-02-19 06:25:40
  • #3
Many thanks for all your answers and tips!



We will now discuss the cork or silicone solution with the carpenter.

And you don’t need this transition strip to compensate for the height difference (that was the carpenter’s reason for the strip; we had no idea it would be such a tripping hazard, otherwise we would have questioned it right away...)?

The parquet is the same, but under the floating laid one there is approximately 2 mm thick impact sound insulation... so there actually is a (minimal) height difference.
 

Knallkörper

2017-02-19 07:53:08
  • #4
I would install a strip of cork there to fix it. That’s how we do the expansion joints in the door thresholds, it looks okay.
 

Bieber0815

2017-02-19 13:01:37
  • #5
In our case, glued down; both the wooden steps on the stairs are glued and the floor on the heated screed. We don’t have parquet there, but cork. Your parquet really looks good, I like it!
 

KlaRa

2017-02-19 13:20:18
  • #6
Hello "Christa_74". Visually, this is not well executed, but technically this or a similar variant of implementation was necessary. The problem is that here glued parquet, which forms a strong bond with the substrate, meets a loosely laid (floating) wooden construction. It is simply unavoidable here that the parquet tends to change length and develop edge cupping due to moisture absorption or release. To counteract this, the edges of the parquet in the floating construction must be kept at the same height to prevent tripping hazards or edge breakouts on the parquet. As a parquet layer, I would have recommended gluing the parquet near the staircase as well and installing the transition profile in a straight line (running parallel to the staircase). By the way, this would be possible with a profile that has a narrower (visible) leg only 10mm to 15mm wide. In your described case, this can also be done afterwards. It would only require a reinstallation of about 2-3 m². -------------------- Regards: KlaRa
 

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