Controlled residential ventilation - What should be considered when purchasing?

3) What should one pay attention to (provider, structural peculiarities, ???) if it is important that one feels as little airflow as possible?

Two points are crucial:

[*]The volume flow per outlet The volume flow at the outlet should (in the design case) not exceed 30 m³/h. Have the planner advise you accordingly. [*]The type and placement of the outlet There are disc valves and grilles. Especially with grilles, but in my experience also with disc valves in office buildings, an airflow can be felt directly beneath an outlet. In winter, this is usually (slightly) colder than the room air. Therefore, supply air outlets should not be planned above favorite seating areas.

The overflow (doors) actually has no influence on drafts, unless you lie/stand directly right next to the door. In general, one should ensure that planning and design are done according to a standard. You should communicate your wishes and then critically evaluate the planning. Have something offered to you and then bring it here for discussion. Otherwise, as already mentioned, there are plenty of posts here and elsewhere ... (perhaps even too many).

A ventilation technician is planning. Of course, they can then be part of the heating trade.

The pipes can also be laid later on the raw subfloor. However, you will need core drilling. Certainly, coordination with the shell builder is not a bad idea.

Optimal is when the air outlets are in the floor and the exhaust valves are in the ceiling.

Certainly, coordination with the shell builder is not wrong.

At a minimum, IMHO:
- Consideration in the shell construction (ceiling build-up or floor structure, height is needed)
- Consideration in the static calculation for the embedded variant (or?)
- For the "on the raw floor" variant, coordination with plumbing and electrical regarding the installation zones (usually ventilation ducts first, then the other trades) (height is needed again)
- Consideration in the energy saving ordinance calculations and heating load determination (with WRG)
- Coordination with floor layers and painters regarding the fitting of valves etc.; same applies at the façade, if another trade is involved again
- Determination of the overflow, if applicable, and consideration in the interior doors
- Electrical connection for the central unit (which, of course, also requires space)
- Since there are rules for the placement of the fresh air inlet and the exhaust outlet, the controlled residential ventilation must already be considered in the design.

What else?

This is not meant to criticize your statement; only to make the questioner aware in case they are dealing with an inexperienced general contractor/developer. (The coordination with the painter went wrong for us ... )

Are there any more experiences?

In this discussion, so far only mycraft has mentioned 6 years of experience. Unfortunately, it is not clear from the other contributions whether these are more or less theoretical statements or tips from real personal experiences.

Experience would be really helpful here.

Using natural building materials such as wood and clay when building, and, if possible, planning rooms generously, also helps to prevent moisture problems.

Where is the mold supposed to come from? If it has reached the pipe, you have completely different problems in the house.

Well, since the room air is being sucked in, all sorts of things come in with it - filter or no filter...