Assembly: Wall mount for punching bag

  • Erstellt am 2016-04-22 20:34:27

V4L3NTIN

2016-04-22 20:34:27
  • #1
Hello everyone, I have the following concern:

I want to install a steel wall mount for a 70 kg heavy punching bag. The construction description of our terraced house (built in 1989, NRW) provides the following information about the wall (1st floor; facing the neighbor):

,,All load-bearing walls are constructed of masonry, where necessary in concrete due to static requirements." ,,The exterior walls are insulated with a 6 cm thick core insulation mat and faced with an 11.5 cm thick sand-lime brick facing brick."

Slightly offset from each other, I made 4 test drillings (3 mm, approx. 10 cm deep) with a stone drill bit through the textured wallpaper and could not detect any cavities. In my opinion, the "masonry" is made of solid sand-lime brick.
Is there a risk that it is actually hollow or perforated brick? If yes, how can I protect myself (more test drillings)?

The punching bag mount has 6 M10 holes for wall mounting (4 on top, 2 below). Included in the delivery were 6 M8x60 screws and 6 corresponding metal expansion anchors (only for mounting in concrete?). However, due to their short length, these do not give me a very secure impression. The punching bag causes enormous vibrations... Now I have come across anchor bolts and injection mortar (e.g. FIS A + V from Fischer) on the Internet. Is this the solution to my problem or is it overpowered? How long should the threaded rods be, is M8x110 okay? About 1.5 cm should protrude from the wall. And would I also need anchor sleeves made of plastic or metal?

If relevant, the punching bag is 1.80 m high, the wall mount is 60 cm deep (i.e. distance punching bag center <-> wall) and the suspension (chains, spring...) takes about 50 cm.

Additionally, I would like to know how to avoid hitting a joint when drilling through wallpaper, or does this not matter for stability?

Unfortunately, after days of research, I am completely confused. I hope one of the experts here can at least help me somewhat. I am very grateful for any tips Thank you very much in advance!

Best regards

V4L3NTIN
 

Gartenfreund

2016-04-23 02:05:51
  • #2
Since you, just like me, do not have X-ray vision (or do you?), you cannot be sure whether you hit a joint or not. It's just a matter of luck. If fastening material is already included, it should actually be the right one. But some manufacturers do save money in the wrong places.

You write



So the bracket is supposed to be attached to the partition wall to the neighbor. I could well imagine that he might not be particularly thrilled about that. Because I could imagine that he will hear the occasional bang when you beat the punching bag.
 

V4L3NTIN

2016-04-23 05:10:47
  • #3
Hello,

first of all, thank you very much for the quick response. Attached are some photos of the dowels, the bracket, and the punching bag (right variant).

I assume that the existing masonry is also plastered (1-2 cm?). Thus, the 6 dowels would each be anchored only 4-5 cm deep. Additionally, due to the lever effect, the entire weight basically rests only on the upper 4 dowels. And since calcium silicate bricks (possibly even hollow bricks) are much less stable compared to concrete, I now have concerns.

To clarify the dimensions again: It is a 70 kg and 1.80 m long punching bag (lever arm), on which punches and kicks are to be trained (jerky/impulsive loads).

I think that mechanical dowels, regardless of type (except for heavy-duty dowels), will "work loose" over time because of this. Therefore, my first consideration was the chemical method (injection mortar).

Regarding the neighbors, I am not too worried. The sound insulation between the buildings is actually very good. Of course, I will do my best to decouple the bag from the bracket (spring, ropes ...), and naturally not train at night. ;-P In addition, we have a very good relationship with our neighbors. In an emergency, an agreement (time regulation) will certainly be found.

Thanks again in advance, I appreciate any tips!

Best regards


V4L3NTIN


 

nordanney

2016-04-23 08:49:09
  • #4
Why don’t you hang it from the ceiling? If it’s a concrete ceiling, you have zero problems. We had a bean bag hanging from the ceiling for many years, three suitable screws, and a load capacity of 150 kg – it held perfectly, even when we were roughhousing there as a family with father, mother, and children.
 

V4L3NTIN

2016-04-23 15:11:52
  • #5
Hello,
first of all, thank you!

Unfortunately, on the 1st floor we only have drywall ceilings, which are also fastened with furring strips under the collar beams. Removing a complete drywall panel from below / the carpet from above is unfortunately out of the question. I wouldn't know how else to reach a load-bearing beam. Also, I have read in several reports that sound spreads significantly more (towards the neighbors) with ceiling installation. Unfortunately, another room is also not an option.

Thank you again!

Best regards

V4L3NTIN
 

V4L3NTIN

2016-05-01 05:21:50
  • #6
I believe my entry got somewhat overlooked. Still asking for advice. Are the anchors shown above (regardless of the sizing) suitable for calcium silicate brick or only for concrete?
 

Similar topics
09.02.2016Should concrete be waterproofed or allow water to pass through?14
01.02.2017Basement originally partially concrete, now possibly completely brick-built28
09.01.2012Bed SUNDNES - which screws?15
20.07.2017Calcium silicate brick, similar or Ytong?12
20.11.2017Can drywall be glued directly onto concrete?29
18.07.2018Garage construction made of concrete! 3 walls or house extension? What do you think?26
04.04.2023What is more expensive? Masonry or windows?21
09.09.2019Are empty conduits and empty boxes in WU concrete dangerous?10
27.04.2020Entrance platform front door concrete17
27.05.2020Set formwork blocks on the foundation or in concrete21
11.06.2020Sand-lime brick + ETICS, Ytong or sand-lime brick 2-layer14
06.08.2020Interior walls made of Poroton or calcium silicate brick?18
07.10.2020The underfloor heating on the first floor is no longer working32
22.10.2021Prefabricated garage - concrete or steel? What is recommended?21
09.04.2022Prefabricated concrete house with gable roof (appearance)53
08.03.2023Should precast concrete filigree ceilings in the basement be left unplastered?25
22.02.2023Soil report for bungalow 140 sqm, additional costs for WU concrete?33
29.01.2024Basement made of WU concrete or Poroton?17

Oben