Accelerate drying after insertion

  • Erstellt am 2017-05-05 14:45:02

rabudde

2017-05-05 18:13:26
  • #1
The drinking water connection does not necessarily have to be insulated, it might be considered good practice - but no one in this construction area has it. And as I said, when I see how wet the insulation of the brine line is, the same thing would happen here, namely that it would just keep sweating and then happily drip down below. Work really needs to be done here to remove the humidity from the air. Although even in March at 21°C/60% relative humidity, the superficially located, water-carrying pipes were sweating heavily. I don’t even want to imagine what is going on below the underfloor heating regarding cold water.

The air exchange? I have proven that to myself because I took care of airing once daily plus the ongoing construction dryers during the screed drying. Otherwise, no one would have cared. I find it nice and correct to always point out certain things like: there is the standard and it has to be done that way, and you are building turnkey, so why do you then take care of it... In the end, it is what it is, arguing helps me little at the moment because I want to avoid long-term problems now.

Due to the lower room temperature, the expert advised me to keep the bedroom closed, so a second dehumidifier might not be a bad idea after all. Let’s see what the market prices are like.

Otherwise, again: can anyone make a statement on whether masonry drying after occupancy can nevertheless be (significantly) accelerated in practice by this method? If it can otherwise take 3-4 years, I suspect that very little diffuses through the plaster and that the dehumidifier only regulates the moisture in the room itself in the short term but can only marginally affect the masonry!?
 

77.willo

2017-05-05 18:41:25
  • #2
To have dry walls regarding humidity, the wall must be 5-7 degrees colder than the air. In a house built according to the standard, there must probably be a thermal bridge.
 

ypg

2017-05-05 20:40:04
  • #3
But you have consciously decided against controlled residential ventilation... but then you should be aware that ventilating once in the first 2-3 years is not enough. I can really only shake my head because renouncing it means an additional daily effort. Maybe someone will link this thread in the current controlled residential ventilation discussions - unfortunately, it doesn't work with Tapatalk. Regards, Yvonne
 

Barossi

2017-05-05 22:37:37
  • #4
Hello,
Regarding Controlled Residential Ventilation, I have a quick question:

Can I "use" our Controlled Residential Ventilation (which will be put into operation next week) to dry the screed to around 1.8% CM?
Or is it better to use a dehumidifier here?

Best regards, Barossi
 

ypg

2017-05-05 22:39:44
  • #5


No. Use a construction dryer, which also extracts moisture from walls and floors. I don't think controlled residential ventilation can achieve that.

Regards, Yvonne
 

EveundGerd

2017-05-05 22:49:42
  • #6
Agree with my predecessor. Take the [Bautrockner]. Efficient and fast.
 

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