Which stone

Hello, since we have to build onto an existing firewall, I probably cannot insulate further. I found a stone and would like to hear your opinion on it, as well as how these stones behave when they adjoin the firewall without plaster. I have a piece of brick wall unplastered and the weather really takes its toll on it. Does this also happen to the firewall? How is this usually resolved to prevent building damage in the long term? Here is the excerpt about the stone and the manufacturer's information. Is something like this enough nowadays to require as little energy as possible for heating? I want to come as close as possible to a zero-energy house, but without having to notice a difference in standards.

ma

What does your architect think of these stones? If you "build on" with a stone, where is the weather supposed to come from? The top joint will probably be made rainproof, right? Also here: What does your planner say about it? And on the topic of zero-energy house... how do you define that? You can achieve it with any stone if you consider all the other factors. Whether it is always worthwhile is another matter.

Hello,
We don’t have an architect, do we need one? We have a master mason who said we only need a draftsman, that would be sufficient.

Regarding the execution, we haven’t talked about that yet, maybe I’m a bit hasty there. I like to inform myself thoroughly in advance so I can have a say when the time comes, or at least not look completely clueless.
He said for our case he finds a Ytong stone quite good, very good insulation.
What speaks against a Ytong stone for me is our existing house. In 1974, partition walls made of aerated concrete blocks were built in, and no plug holds in those lousy walls. There are now special plugs with side wings. I tried those but when hammered into the drilled hole the side wings got sheared off. At the hardware store, he recommended knocking off the plaster around the drilled hole and then replastering it, such an effort for a plug, no, there must be another masonry, or a different masonry has to be used in the new building.
Zero-energy house or passive house, I don’t want to overrate that, ultimately as little energy as possible should be used, since everything is known to be getting more expensive. But it should remain within a manageable and cost-effective range.

ma

... and the master bricklayer will calculate the zero-energy house for you?

Problem plot, zero-energy house (facing north)... age-appropriate... and no architect???? :mad:
Have you ever informed yourself about building a house???:rolleyes:

I have aerated concrete here and no problems with anchors, I also have screws from a professional that can be used in such a stone without anchors, and they hold quite a lot. Apparently, there are significant differences.

Hello,

We have a master mason who said we only need a draftsperson, that would be enough.

Even if that were the case, a simple copier/application stamper will hardly suffice in your case...

Zero-energy house or passive house, I don’t want to overvalue that, ultimately as little energy as possible should be used, since everything is becoming more expensive, as is well known. But it should remain within a manageable and price-performance range.

In the end, your budget decides. Since I believe you have no idea about the construction costs of a zero-energy or passive house, you might want to write how many euros you are willing to invest?

As a small reminder: a zero-energy house completely supplies itself, a passive house is allowed to have a heating energy demand of less than 15 kWh/(m²a) and a primary energy demand including hot water and household electricity of less than 120 kWh/(m²a).

Rhenish regards