WDVS: Structure, Recommendations, Materials, Tips

Hello everyone,

the wall construction for our house build consists of concrete plus ETICS for the basement (due to the slope, it is practically 2/5 basement and 3/5 garden level with ground-level garden access) as well as brick plus ETICS for the ground floor.

Therefore, we would now like to take a closer look at ETICS. We are building according to the Energy Saving Ordinance but are not aiming for a KfW standard beyond that.

Starting from the masonry to the plaster and paint, what can you recommend here?
Are there (major) differences between various ETICS?
What should we pay attention to and do you have any tips?

Thank you for the help!

Well, I could recommend a ventilated facade, I insulated like that myself in the upper floor. That would be fleece-laminated mineral wool boards and on top of that I have wooden profiles. The advantage would be that any moisture from inside can dry off easily, and no icy wind blows directly on the house wall, but there is still a layer of air in between. Of course, it also works in blazing sun. The previous owner once called it the "diving suit principle." I actually think it's quite good. Downstairs on the ground floor we have concrete blocks and Neopor. Now flexible facing bricks will be added there, but visually I find the wooden facade nicer at first.

Those would be fleece-laminated mineral wool boards and on top of that, I have wooden profiles. The advantage would be that any moisture from inside can dry off easily, and no icy wind blows directly on the house wall, but there is still an air layer in between.

Did you perhaps misunderstand something (or simply phrase it awkwardly)?
A ventilated facade is called that because there is a (flowing) air layer behind the facade (in your case wood). However, the actual insulation underneath lies directly on the masonry.
If you were to place the air layer between the masonry and the insulation, the insulating effect would be lost because cold air would constantly flow in, so there would be no difference compared to uninsulated masonry which is permanently exposed to outside air. For the same reason, insulating the facade in cavity wall construction also makes no sense unless the cavity is simultaneously insulated.
The "diving suit principle," on the other hand, works with a closed air layer, i.e. precisely without ventilation (and thus without drying). But since air still has a significantly higher thermal transmittance than any insulation material available on the market, this is not a viable alternative either way.

:

A "Wall Insulation [C]oating ystem" (WDVS) is essentially the (usually more cost-effective) alternative to a "ventilated curtain facade" (see Elina). The insulation material is simply plastered and not elaborately clad.
Which of the various systems is suitable for you depends, besides costs, on what is "usual" where you live (meaning "commonly installed and the craftsmen master it"), or what is important for you personally in terms of appearance, ecological conscience, fire protection, follow-up costs, etc. Just google the term; that’s faster than waiting for a paraphrase here in the forum.

The cheapest WDVS is made of expanded polystyrene (EPS). The "Neopor" mentioned by Elina is a variant of this EPS with slightly higher insulating effect. Including plaster, a WDVS made of EPS should cost around €150/m² depending on the area. Our neighbors are currently having part of their facade fitted with a ventilated curtain facade (with rhombus slats), which costs about €250/m² converted.

Thanks for the explanations. Nevertheless, I am currently concerned with specific materials within the ETICS (unfortunately, the curtain has been omitted in our case due to cost reasons), starting from the stone up to the plaster.

Experiences from others could help there, for example if someone has a system that tends to favor algae growth...

Nevertheless, right now I’m concerned with specific materials within the WDVS

Take whatever your builder or painter or whichever craftsman offers. They all insulate, some better (then more expensive or thicker). You can then plaster (and paint) or cover with brick slips. In the end, it’s just a matter of taste. Everything looks good anyway. Don’t stress yourself, especially if you’re not aiming for any special standard.

I certainly wouldn't say that so generally. If we assume a standard house, it should be a decision between EPS and mineral wool. EPS is cheaper as already mentioned. Personally, I would use mineral insulation if I had to insulate. You should be able to find plenty of pros and cons of the systems on the internet. In my view, what is important for both systems is that the plaster is not chosen too thin (especially the reinforcing layer). Unfortunately, people often save on this. Too thin means that the plaster partly bounces on the insulation, so you will quickly have damage. (I often see in damage cases that the reinforcing layer barely covers the fabric, just 2-3 mm of material. The top coat is then a matter of taste and price. Find reasonable contractors or an external consultant and get advice. A good execution of the work is more important than perfecting all materials in detail.