Wastewater pipe - How to cover and insulate?

Hello everyone,

we want to renovate our guest room / office in the basement ourselves, meaning wallpapering, painting, and laying laminate.

So far, so good. However, one thing that's still causing me some headaches is a wastewater downpipe that will be in a corner of the room, which we want to cover ourselves.

What is the best way to create such a cover? I had already thought of aluminum profiles with drywall panels, but I have no experience with such tasks at all.

Another topic is sound insulation. Since the room will occasionally be used as a guest room, I naturally want to keep the noise from the wastewater as low as possible – how should I insulate the pipe?

Simply putting mineral wool between the pipe and the wall, or are there better methods?

There won’t be large amounts of water flowing through this pipe – it’s "only" the drain from the kitchen sink and dishwasher.

Best regards,

Dirk

In our case, the wastewater pipe for two bathrooms runs through a corner of the living room. Noise level is zero!
There are supposedly special "quiet" pipes that are then mounted on the wall as sound-isolated as possible. The wastewater pipe was wrapped in two layers of pipe insulation (like a cover, looked like the insulation used for, e.g., hot water pipes). Around that, traditional drywall construction.
No insulating wool or similar was installed with us. But please don't ask now for the names of the materials used – we are just happy that it works really well.

Hello Dirk,

"Nordanney" has already given you the correct answers; if I am not mistaken, the term he is looking for is SML pipe.

What initially makes me hesitant is:

we want to finish our guest room / office in the basement ourselves, that is, wallpaper, paint, and lay laminate.

I assume that the basement was constructed with WU concrete elements in sandwich construction? And the outside and the surrounding walls of the room? Insulation sufficient for structural conversion to living space or usual design as a utility basement? Floor? Heated screed, possibly underfloor heating or radiators? Windows => living room windows/emergency exit?

Best regards from the Rhineland

There are corresponding angle profiles: about 15 x 15 cm (or 20 x 20), they are relatively light and reinforced, somehow with square mesh. Or you can cut them yourself, as seen here: Just type Rohr Verkleidung into Google and then click on Images, then you will see how the drain was clad in the ground floor of our old house.

Hello Dirk, just as Bauberatung says: Don’t worry about it too much! In our kitchen there is also a drain pipe in the corner from the bathroom above. (However, it is an HT100. Toilet, bathtub, shower, sink, and washing machine all make noise through it). We have doubled the drywall, put pipe insulation around it, added mineral wool, and used standard pipe clamps (with rubber inserts). I wouldn’t say you hear nothing. But very little. When the radio is playing, I don’t hear anything. Best regards

We built the entire drywall construction ourselves (covering pipes (super easy ), complete pre-wall constructions, and a T-solution for shower, toilet, and washbasin (actually not that difficult either but super time-consuming)) without much prior knowledge. We built the pre-wall installations from metal stud framing filled with insulation wool, 15mm OSB, and 12.5mm moisture-resistant drywall boards, and the pipe coverings with metal stud framing and simple moisture-resistant drywall boards without any insulation. I just glued the edge insulation strip (that black foam stuff from the roll for impact sound decoupling) under the profile at the wall connection everywhere as a precaution, but that probably wouldn't have been necessary for the simple pipe coverings.

If you don't have two left hands and the right tools (very important: a spirit level) it's child's play and even almost fun

By the way, three tilers have already been on-site with us and all absolutely praised the drywall. So: go for it!

P.S.: You can also work with 30x50 roof battens, provided a slight warping can be accepted. Otherwise, it doesn’t make the work any easier and it’s not much cheaper either. Therefore my tip: metal stud framing.

One more thing: just don't use self-drilling Spax screws for metal studs, that's the worst crap. Use completely normal phosphated screws (they are matte black) with coarse threads and a powerful screwdriver. Phosphated is important because otherwise the screw heads will eventually become visible under the filler as the coating of the screws oxidizes. And take the small 50mm profiles, nobody needs anything bigger and the risk of bending away when the screw comes in is somewhat higher with the bigger profiles. You can also put a roof batten inside the profile, then nothing will bend away when the screw goes in, only I don’t know if the batten eventually wants to warp.

Watch a few videos and off you go.

Oh yes, there are also prefabricated profiles for gluing, but they are damn expensive.

Hope this helps