Walls and ceilings in the new building

Hello dear forum,

we will start the interior work on our new semi-detached house in about 6 weeks and want to do as much as possible ourselves.
The walls are plastered ready for wallpapering and the joints in the concrete ceilings are filled and also prepared ready for wallpapering. The drywall walls and sloping ceilings are gypsum plasterboard, which is also filled ready for wallpapering.

What the result should look like:
As a surface in almost all rooms, we have imagined a fine rolled plaster that can be applied with a roller. On the one hand for visual reasons, on the other hand because of the positive effects on the indoor climate. In some rooms, wallpaper would possibly be sufficient for us.

What we have thought so far:
Walls:
In order not to damage the surface with unsightly settlement cracks, we want to prepare the walls completely with renovation fleece. So I would

[*]prime the plastered walls
[*]paper the walls
[*]treat the wallpaper with a sealing primer (necessary according to the statement of a major rolled plaster manufacturer)
[*]apply rolled plaster

Ceilings:
Here we are very unsure whether we should apply the sealing primer and rolled plaster directly on the concrete ceiling or whether we should first wallpaper with renovation fleece.
My wife thinks I should save myself the work of wallpapering the ceiling, I am concerned that the filled joints will later be visible through the applied rolled plaster and that small air pockets in the concrete might become visible. Also, I can remove the wallpaper together with the rolled plaster without problems in a few years. If the plaster is applied directly, we have a lot of work.
I could also imagine having at least the ceilings papered by a painter...

Gypsum plasterboard/sloping ceilings:
Here too, I would apply renovation fleece and then rolled plaster. Before that, I would treat the plasterboard with an appropriate primer so that the paper layer of the plasterboard does not tear when removing the wallpaper.
Do the joints between the slope and the masonry wall have to be treated specially? Acrylic joint?

Stairwell:
The height of the open stairwell is about 12m from the basement to the top of the roof (4 floors). The staircase is a steel staircase that is connected to the wall at some anchors.
Here the question arises whether one wallpapers a single strip for the entire 12m from top to bottom or whether one separates it by floor. In the stairwell, rolled plaster will definitely be applied due to robustness.
For the stairwell I am also looking for a professional painter in parallel, because a scaffold will probably have to be set up in the attic to reach the approx. 4.20m high peak.

So, that was a lot of information. Again, as a small summary my open questions:

[*]Concrete ceilings: prime/roll plaster directly, or wallpaper renovation fleece first?
[*]Stairwell: one strip from top to bottom, or separated?
[*]Joint between sloping ceiling and masonry wall
[*]Is my procedure basically okay, or are there suggestions for improvement?

Thanks for your help and best regards,
Sam

As a surface in almost all rooms, we imagined a fine roller plaster that can be applied with a roller. On the one hand for aesthetic reasons, on the other hand because of the positive effects on the indoor climate.

??? What influence ??? There will be exactly zero influence.

Prime/roller-plaster concrete ceilings directly, or wallpaper with renovation fleece first?

Fleece on it and just paint, fine roller plaster in my opinion will not look good. If the ceiling is really smooth, just painting (or roller plaster on it) is enough. There will be no settlement cracks.

Staircase in one strip from top to bottom, or separate?

Doesn't matter, you put the roller plaster on anyway and won’t see the substrate anymore. It can also be 10 pieces if that makes the work easier.
Be careful not to ruin your staircase.

Joint between sloping roof and masonry wall

You can use acrylic, but it will very likely crack again.

Depending on how smooth the walls are, you can choose different fleece variants. Of course, this is also a question of price, as the heavier renovation fleece is more expensive.

??? What influence??? There will be exactly 0 influence.

What I have heard/read about it so far: Compared to a dispersion paint, the wall breathes, absorbs moisture due to the mineral content, and releases it again. In my opinion, this is an important issue given the high residual moisture still present in the plaster. However, I am happy to be corrected.

Depending on how smooth the walls are,

The walls are very smooth; the fleece is used exclusively for crack bridging. Other owners have painted the plaster directly, but I have concerns about settlement cracks.

What I have heard/read about this so far: Compared to a dispersion paint, the wall breathes, absorbs moisture due to the mineral content, and releases it again. In my opinion, this is an important issue given the high residual moisture still contained in the plaster. However, I am happy to be corrected.

Normal plaster walls do not breathe; with clay plaster, it is somewhat different. However, you still apply a) fleece + b) primer + c) textured plaster + d) paint onto the supposedly breathable wall. Even if the wall could "breathe," you would immediately destroy the effect. The house only breathes today through a ventilation system or open windows, otherwise not. Unfortunately, that is the case.

The walls are very smooth; the fleece serves exclusively to bridge cracks. Other owners painted the plaster directly, but I am concerned about shrinkage cracks.

Then a thin fleece variant should also suffice.

Renoviervlies: As far as I understand, a new building is currently not the typical area of application for a renoviervlies. Here, possibly a painter's fleece would be appropriate. However, I cannot say what the roll plaster requires.

Breathable walls: IMHO all nonsense. Ideally, one has a controlled residential ventilation system and thus always pleasant air quality. If one does not have it, ventilation behavior and especially the furnishings (plants, carpets, textile furniture such as sofas, etc.) have a great influence on the "dynamics" of air quality. I personally consider that the wall significantly buffers to be exaggerated. Surely other people have once calculated or experimentally investigated this; one would have to research it.

If you are afraid that the new wall still contains a lot of moisture, then only one thing helps: waiting (or actively drying before the final treatment of the wall).

Hello everyone, first of all thank you for the assessments. After further endless considerations, consultations with painters and of course also internet research, we have now agreed to wallpaper all the interior walls with Erfurt fleece woodchip wallpaper in the PRO variant with 0.75cm and then paint them with Malerit E.L.F. We plan to have the staircase and probably also the ceilings done professionally and do the rest ourselves. This seems to us at the current stage the best way to design the house according to our ideas. I know, woodchip wallpaper is a matter of taste, but it is OK for us. Are there any experiences here with semi-professional airless devices? For the large wall/ceiling area of 600-700m² I had considered, for example, applying the white paint with a Wagner Project 117 to save time and work. In my research I came across both absolute airless opponents and supporters. How much time would you estimate for applying Malerit ELF once with a roller on woodchip wallpaper over the 600m²? I really can't estimate that. Regarding experiences with airless, I have read up to 600m² per day (without masking and cleaning). Regards, Sam