Wall breakthrough: Is the wall load-bearing? Do I need a structural engineer?

  • Erstellt am 2018-03-02 14:04:17

stilke

2018-03-02 14:04:17
  • #1
Hello,
I am planning a pass-through of about 1m x 1m from a kitchen to the living room. (marked in red)
Unfortunately, I cannot say if the wall is load-bearing.
Due to the wall thickness of 10cm, I don't think there will be any problems?!?
Who could help me based on the drawing?
Do I absolutely need a structural calculation?
What should be considered:
Installing a beam, framing, or plastering after the breakthrough?
Thank you very much for the help

Regards Jan
 

saar2and

2018-03-02 15:53:47
  • #2
Do you have a plan of the attic. Preliminary conclusion: no load-bearing wall according to the plan but what was actually done with it in reality or if anything else collapsed on it I can't tell you, so I recommend a structural engineer. Anything else would also be grossly negligent. But honestly, installing a HEA beam now is not really a problem, one day of work and 400 euros including plastering material etc.
 

stilke

2018-03-05 08:40:52
  • #3
Hello, thanks for the info.

I have uploaded the entire floor plan.

Unfortunately, I am not very experienced in such matters, but basically, there is of course nothing against a beam.

Regards, Jan
 

dertill

2018-03-05 10:52:03
  • #4
It would also be interesting to know the year of construction and the material used in the wall where the breakthrough is to be made.

Drywall partitions are "rarely" load-bearing regardless of thickness, but calcium silicate brick can be load-bearing from 11.5 cm, everything else usually only from 17.5 cm. At 10 cm including plaster, only 7.5 cm bricks should have been used, so it is uncritical.

If you want to be sure: support on both sides and install a small 7.5 cm concrete lintel. It is no more effort and you have certainty. The structural engineer who issues a report would probably be more expensive for this breakthrough size than the mason.

For DIY: (after supporting) cut on both sides with a wall chasing cutter with dust extraction 50 mm deep and knock down. Cut out the corners for the lintel at the same time. This makes the least mess and is the fastest. Check beforehand if no pipes are really located there. Especially in the kitchen with a detector, as complicated pipe routing is sometimes used that has little to do with any installation zones.

EDIT: Just saw on the plans. It says 11.5 cm wall. If calcium silicate brick, THIS wall CAN be load-bearing, but does not have to be. Since there is no wall above, it at most carries the wooden beams of the ceiling (if present). With calcium silicate brick, for safety, first remove two bricks above and support through the wall, then cut out.
 

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