Vinyl flooring in the kitchen on tiles with floor height compensation to the hallway?

Hello, we want to lay a vinyl floor on porcelain stoneware tiles in the kitchen. Preferably glue-down vinyl. The problem now is the height difference to the hallway, which is about 16mm that we want to compensate with the flooring. There is no underfloor heating and it should have good impact sound insulation and thermal underlay. It should be a dry construction, no liquid screed or anything like that!

So this is how I get to my 16mm:

Consideration 1: OSB 1.2mm + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 2mm + glue-down vinyl tiles 2mm

Are OSB boards loose on tiles good for impact sound insulation?

Consideration 2: Impact sound insulation boards 5mm + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 5mm + click vinyl tiles 5mm

I am a bit skeptical whether it is good to layer the impact sound insulation on top of each other. I definitely want to ensure that the joints in the click vinyl do not open up.

Maybe you have another idea?

Hello "busmaster". If you glue PVC planks onto tiles (here: porcelain stoneware tiles), you will always (!) have to live with the joint patterns showing through on the surface of the covering. This installation method does not comply with the recognized rules of the trade for a reason. 1.2mm thick OSB boards are not known to me from practice. They cannot exist either, as they are too thin. The minimum thickness is already 6mm due to manufacturing reasons. The alternative construction you otherwise planned may correspond to the knowledge level of a technical layperson, but it cannot and will not lead to success with any of the other variants! The correct way would be: - remove 1 or 2 rows of boards in front of doorways, - thoroughly clean the entire tile level - fill the entire tile level with at least 2mm thick filler and - fill the areas in front of the doorways ramp-like, so that the PVC planks later connect flush or level with the hallway. Anything else will not lead to the expected success! ------------------------------ Regards: KlaRa

Of course, 1.2cm OSB was meant, not 1.2mm!! With OSB boards on the tiles, the joints certainly will not press through onto the vinyl. The question was whether a dry construction variant is possible. Before I would skim a ramp, I would rather fill the entire floor with flowing screed, but actually I wanted to avoid that.

With OSB boards on the tiles, the joints will certainly not press through to the vinyl

Answer:
No, certainly not.
But because of the hard substrate (the OSB boards), it will rattle and resonate when walked on, the joints of the OSB boards will take over those of the porcelain stoneware tiles. Based on experience, the dry adhesive of the self-adhesive PVC planks will also not fully perform its function.
That is for sure!
But:
No one can tell you how and on which subfloor you lay which top covering. We here in this forum only want to provide technical assistance in the form of advice, pass on our knowledge, and thus prevent damage.
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Good luck: Klaus

Ok then, first of all, thank you for the answers.

In summary, in this case, it is probably best to prime the tiles, then fill with leveling compound, and then apply a fully glued 2mm vinyl directly on top.
Can you tell me which primer I should use for this and which leveling compound would be suitable? The height would then be 14mm over 6.5 sqm.

Hello "busmaster".
Read by chance and therefore answered promptly:
No one wrote that the entire kitchen surface must be filled to a thickness of 14mm! I wrote about approx. 2mm filler thickness.
Your statement (quote) "The problem now is the height difference to the hallway is approx. 16mm (...)" means in my interpretation:
The kitchen is 16mm higher in level than the hallway.
So we remove 1 or 2 rows of tiles before the transition (depending on the format) and achieve about 13mm height gain.
Minus 2.5mm PVC planks, 1.5mm adhesive bed and 2mm filler. That leaves a height difference of 7mm to the hallway from originally 16mm. This height is easily compensated by any transition profile!
There will thus be no height issues as "tripping points" in the transition.
As a primer (example: Schönox VD) above the old tiles, one based on dispersion is needed, which is suitable for non-absorbent substrates. Other dispersion-based primers are highly damaging!
An important prerequisite for a damage-free trade is a prior thorough cleaning with a alkaline cleaner.
There are plenty of fillers on the market, whether from Thomsit, Uzin or Schönox. For the door transition, however, it must be stable (with self-leveling fillers you cannot fill ramp-like).
For such work, as you now intend, expert knowledge is required.
Wise advice from those who begin their tweet with " .. I also once ..." is of little help. Especially since responders cannot later be held liable for the bad advice given, and any damage thereby remains solely with you.
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I hereby sign off into the Easter holidays: Klaus