Remove the window, wall up the opening - Which bricks and how?

Hello,

I want to remove an old wooden window from an extension built in the 70s and brick up the opening. The masonry is double-layered, inside white sand-lime brick (I believe), outside beige facing brick, with almost no air gap in between. (It is the coldest room in the old house, the rest was also built double-layered, without facing bricks and with a 5-9 cm air gap, which we have since filled with blown-in insulation).

The wall thickness including interior plaster is about 33 cm. The appearance on the outside does not matter, as we will either cover the facing brick facade with rhombus cladding sooner or later, and perhaps also insulate it properly beforehand.

So I wanted to use a Poroton block brick for the wall. In 30 cm thickness. Almost impossible to get here. 26 cm would not be a problem at the hardware store, specialist dealers, ... but then I would have to apply so much plaster, which would be nonsense. I have been trying to get bricks for 2 weeks, everywhere refusals or no response at all... and now my 2-week vacation is starting, I actually wanted to get this done then. So long delivery times for bricks are also out of the question....

Now I'm considering just bricking up the wall with other bricks, possibly also double-layered. But which ones and how should I brick it? I'm not a professional, just DIY with fairly skillful hands. Single-layer block bricks stacked neatly with connectors, etc., I would have trusted myself to do that. Now I’d better ask...

Thanks for any tips.

hbergmann

Tendentially, it is better if you stick with the stone since [Kalkgsandstein] is the best if so in the stock. Why don’t you just set the stone in the most similar thickness so that it fits from the inside for base plaster and top plaster, and if the appearance outside doesn’t matter at first, you just have a few cm difference in the reveal. You can cover that later with your new facade material; if you even insulate beforehand, that doesn’t matter at all in my opinion.

Ytong is available in 30.

Generally, it is better if you stay with the stone because sand-lime brick would be the best if it is in the existing structure.
Why don’t you simply set the stone in the most similar thickness so that it fits from the inside for base plaster and top plaster, and if the appearance on the outside doesn’t matter at first, then you just have a few centimeters difference in the reveal.
You can later cover that with your new facade material, and if you even insulate beforehand, in my opinion, that doesn’t matter at all.

Thanks, good tip. I had already thought about that too. How do I best lay the masonry then? So: one row of sand-lime brick on the inside, one row ... on the outside? Also sand-lime brick? Do these two rows need to be interlocked somehow, or is it enough if each row is connected sideways to the old masonry with wall ties? Thin-bed mortar (like with Poroton) or with another mortar? Is there a cool YouTube video about this somewhere?

Oh yes, and while we're at it, I have a question. You can see in the photo that there is an old concrete windowsill, which I have partially chiseled off, that is, the overhang into the room. Can it just be left in like that, or is it better to remove it? Below it, I have bricked up the heating niche with Ytong.

You should definitely integrate it with the inventory