Campino
2023-04-24 22:01:26
- #1
Hello house construction forum,
I am handicapped in terms of craftsmanship and "quite" ignorant when it comes to heating technology – but for one thing or another, you still don’t want to expose yourself and call a professional if it’s just about temporarily dismantling and hanging two radiators for a room renovation. Several questions have now arisen:
1. So I watched 2-3 YouTube videos and dared to try. Vented the radiators, closed the valves at the bottom of the radiator, loosened the fittings, lifted the radiator and emptied it into a bucket – so far so good, that’s how it was shown in the videos. In one of the videos, it was recommended to screw on so-called blind caps/blind plugs onto the now open supply and return pipes. I have done that now, and it looks like in picture 1 – the right one is a little higher because the sealing ring is still underneath. On the left one, the ring "sticks" to the radiator pipe, and I’m afraid of damaging it when removing it. Now I have a possibly irrational fear that the closed valves might "fail" and the blind caps are not completely tight = disaster because water leaks. Maybe unnoticed if no one is home. (Renovation starts on Thursday, at the latest on Saturday the radiators will be reattached).
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_200810.jpg"]79622[/ATTACH]
Is this a real danger or can you trust the closed valves (slotted turn in the picture)? I figure they might not be designed for permanent "pressure" since they are usually open? Or are the blind caps okay as they are?
2. Opening the valves worked on radiator 1. On radiator 2, however, the valves are completely stuck, nothing turns. Could this be related to the previous venting? The slotted knob was very tight on radiator 2 as well, and there is too little space for my large screwdriver there, I would have to try a different screwdriver. Or is there another trick to get the valves moving?
3. Now, of course, after reinstallation, it will also be about refilling the missing water. I have already found out through research that apparently the heating system pressure is low; the manometer shows only 0.9 bar, recommended is 1.5 bar. It is a district heating system. Unfortunately, I am not sure where I can add the additional water. In an explanatory video, the example heating system only had one access – I have four.
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192147.jpg"]79631[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192157.jpg"]79630[/ATTACH]
Numbered from top 1 to 4. Valves 2 and 4 are connected by a hose (in the video it was said that a permanent connection between the water supply and the heating system is prohibited, so that heating water cannot flow back into the drinking water, but I’m not sure if this applies to the hose).
Valve 3 leads on one hand to the hot water boiler
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192208.jpg"]79629[/ATTACH]
then upwards into this black box
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192214.jpg"]79628[/ATTACH]
and back into the upper part of the boiler.
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192229.jpg"]79627[/ATTACH]
The uppermost valve 1
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192234.jpg"]79626[/ATTACH]
also leads at the T-piece into a second black box
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192242.jpg"]79625[/ATTACH]
but also further to the manometer
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192250.jpg"]79624[/ATTACH]
and then continues toward the exterior wall
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192315.jpg"]79623[/ATTACH]
Since valve 1 seems to be directly connected to the manometer, I had that as my first target – but I am completely unsure how to tell.
Experts in the forum will probably think “For God’s sake, the trade of heating engineer was invented for people like this” and you are probably right, but I still hope to find some help and either get some reassurance regarding question 1 or tips for further measures.
Thank you!
I am handicapped in terms of craftsmanship and "quite" ignorant when it comes to heating technology – but for one thing or another, you still don’t want to expose yourself and call a professional if it’s just about temporarily dismantling and hanging two radiators for a room renovation. Several questions have now arisen:
1. So I watched 2-3 YouTube videos and dared to try. Vented the radiators, closed the valves at the bottom of the radiator, loosened the fittings, lifted the radiator and emptied it into a bucket – so far so good, that’s how it was shown in the videos. In one of the videos, it was recommended to screw on so-called blind caps/blind plugs onto the now open supply and return pipes. I have done that now, and it looks like in picture 1 – the right one is a little higher because the sealing ring is still underneath. On the left one, the ring "sticks" to the radiator pipe, and I’m afraid of damaging it when removing it. Now I have a possibly irrational fear that the closed valves might "fail" and the blind caps are not completely tight = disaster because water leaks. Maybe unnoticed if no one is home. (Renovation starts on Thursday, at the latest on Saturday the radiators will be reattached).
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_200810.jpg"]79622[/ATTACH]
Is this a real danger or can you trust the closed valves (slotted turn in the picture)? I figure they might not be designed for permanent "pressure" since they are usually open? Or are the blind caps okay as they are?
2. Opening the valves worked on radiator 1. On radiator 2, however, the valves are completely stuck, nothing turns. Could this be related to the previous venting? The slotted knob was very tight on radiator 2 as well, and there is too little space for my large screwdriver there, I would have to try a different screwdriver. Or is there another trick to get the valves moving?
3. Now, of course, after reinstallation, it will also be about refilling the missing water. I have already found out through research that apparently the heating system pressure is low; the manometer shows only 0.9 bar, recommended is 1.5 bar. It is a district heating system. Unfortunately, I am not sure where I can add the additional water. In an explanatory video, the example heating system only had one access – I have four.
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192147.jpg"]79631[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192157.jpg"]79630[/ATTACH]
Numbered from top 1 to 4. Valves 2 and 4 are connected by a hose (in the video it was said that a permanent connection between the water supply and the heating system is prohibited, so that heating water cannot flow back into the drinking water, but I’m not sure if this applies to the hose).
Valve 3 leads on one hand to the hot water boiler
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192208.jpg"]79629[/ATTACH]
then upwards into this black box
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192214.jpg"]79628[/ATTACH]
and back into the upper part of the boiler.
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192229.jpg"]79627[/ATTACH]
The uppermost valve 1
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192234.jpg"]79626[/ATTACH]
also leads at the T-piece into a second black box
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192242.jpg"]79625[/ATTACH]
but also further to the manometer
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192250.jpg"]79624[/ATTACH]
and then continues toward the exterior wall
[ATTACH alt="IMG_20230424_192315.jpg"]79623[/ATTACH]
Since valve 1 seems to be directly connected to the manometer, I had that as my first target – but I am completely unsure how to tell.
Experts in the forum will probably think “For God’s sake, the trade of heating engineer was invented for people like this” and you are probably right, but I still hope to find some help and either get some reassurance regarding question 1 or tips for further measures.
Thank you!